upon a green plateau, walled in, as it were, by mountain peaks, which looked of no particular height till the ascent began.  Though the sun had scarcely set, yet, at such an elevation, the air was more than chilly, and as the Baroness put on a warm shawl she said, one could easily account for the fresh looks of the “sennerinnen,” who spend the intensely hot months in so cool and healthful an atmosphere; for the Alps are never scorched and dried up as elsewhere during the summer.  The Esterberg Alp, as it is called, consists of two large tracts of rich meadow, green and fresh as in our own fertile land, with a border of underwood straggling some distance up the mountain, and whence at midday issue the clear sounds of the musical cow-bells, the only signs of life in that wild, solitary spot.

They soon came in sight of a long low house, one-half of which was devoted to the cows and the hay.  The earth around was trodden down and bare; a few flowers grew against the house-wall, and some milk-pans were ranged along it to dry.  The door was opened by a wild-looking man devoid of shoes and coat; his long, shaggy hair looked as if it had never experienced the kindly influence of a comb or brush.  He had evidently been roused from a heavy sleep, but soon understanding that they wished to spend the night in the hut, he told them, in a most singular German dialect, that the “oberschweizer,” or chief, was away, but that he alone could arrange all that was needful; for he was accustomed to attend to the visitors who came there in the warm weather.

The “senner” prepared the meal, consisting of a large bowl full of a dark chopped pancake called “schmarren,” often the only food of the cowherds for weeks together.

The next consideration was a resting-place.  They had been warned that they would get nothing but hay, so it was no surprise when the “senner” led the ladies out to one side of the house, where, mounting a short ladder, he placed his lantern in the center of a large hay-loft, one side of which was open to the free air of heaven, which blew in, fresh and cool, as also it did from numerous chinks in the roof, through which the clear moonbeams shone, rendering the lantern a matter of form.  The man proceeded to arrange the hay in heaps, so that each person could recline or sit, as most conducive to rest.  Only those accustomed (as, indeed, most mountain climbers in Bavaria are) to spending a night half-buried in hay, can sleep.  The hours of the night were spent by the ladies in laughing at one another and discussing the absurdity of spending a night ranged against the sides of a hay-loft, with heads tied up in handkerchiefs, like wounded soldiers in a hospital.