Boiling the Sugar.—­Confectioners recognize seven degrees in boiling sugar for candy, only four of which, however, are practically important.  The first of these is the “thread” at about 215 degrees, by the sugar thermometer, when a short thin thread forms when thumb and forefinger are separated with a drop of syrup between them.  This passes very quickly into a second stage, known as the large or long thread, when it can be drawn out to a considerably greater length without breaking.  In a moment more it can be extended as far as the thumb and forefinger can be separated.  The next stage is the “pearl,” shown when the surface of the syrup is covered with bubbles, and is the stage at which much candy is made.  The “blow” and “feather” come next; then the “ball” or fondant stage at 235 to 245 degrees; this is the third important stage.  To discover when the boiling has progressed to this stage, drop a little of the syrup on to ice water, or dip the tips of the thumb and forefinger into ice water and then into the syrup and instantly into the ice water again with the syrup between.  One can use a small stick in the same way.  If the syrup can be rolled into a soft, but not sticky ball, it is in the soft ball stage; half a minute more of boiling will convert it into the “hard ball,” if tested in the same manner.  For fondant, the “soft ball” is chosen.  The next is the “crack” or brittle stage, at about 300 degrees; when testing as above the syrup remains dry and hard on the fingers.  This is the stage for candy that is to be pulled.  At the caramel stage the syrup begins to brown, and must be quickly taken from the fire or it becomes “burnt sugar;” dropped in water it crackles and snaps.

[Candy making 849]

Making the Fondant.—­Fondant ("foundation”) is the basis of all French bon-bons, so-called.  An endless number of varieties may be made from it in combination with other material.  There are two ways of preparing it.  The easiest and simplest way is to add to the white of an egg an equal bulk of cold water and a teaspoonful of vanilla; beat until it froths, then add, gradually, one pound or more, of confectioners’ XXX sugar; if the egg is large, one and one-half pounds may be required.  Ordinary sugar will not do.  Add sugar until the mixture forms a stiff paste; work this with a spoon until it is very smooth, then put away in a cool place for at least twenty-four hours, letting it stand in an earthen dish, and cover with a doubled napkin wrung out of cold water.

French, or Boiled Fondant.—­Put into a porcelain lined kettle a pint of the best granulated cane sugar, half a pint of cold water and a salt spoon of cream of tartar dissolved in warm water.  Stir it till the sugar is dissolved and boil rapidly without stirring or moving the kettle.  Without a sugar thermometer it is impossible to tell exactly how many minutes it should boil, but usually in about ten minutes a little of the syrup dropped into cold water will form a soft