Dressing on a Modest Allowance.—­The woman who wishes to be well dressed but must produce that effect on a moderate allowance, must be particularly careful in her purchases.  She should confine herself to two colors, of which black will be one.  She must choose conservative styles as well as colors, and above all, she must study very closely the relationship of her purchases in order to avoid incongruities.  A hat may be beautiful and becoming and within her means, yet a very unwise purchase because it will not harmonize with or be suited to the costume with which it is to be worn.

Neat gloves and good shoes are items of dress not to be disregarded by the woman who wishes to look well dressed.  Shabby gloves are ruinous to a well-dressed appearance.

DRESS FOR ELDERLY WOMEN.

The woman who has been “dressy” in her youth must curb her fancy as she grows older, and carefully avoid things that are “too young” for her.  She may “love pink” or pale blue, and because she could wear it when a girl, unwisely clings to it in her fifth and sixth decades.  A bedizened old woman dressed in a fashion suitable for one twenty years younger, is a sight more pitable than admirable.  She must not permit the milliner or costumer to convince her that she is still young enough to “wear anything” but must try to have sense enough to distinguish what is suitable from what appeals to her because she would have looked well in it in her youth.

Ermine furs, for instance, are absurd on a woman of forty-five or fifty.  The dead white brings out the yellow in her complexion and the faded color of eyes and hair.  A very light “dressy” hat makes the wrinkles more obvious.

The Suitable.—­Dark, unobtrusive colors, relieved by white lace at throat and wrists, hats modest in size and coloring, set off gray hair and matronly figure far better than showy and more youthful garb.  No elderly woman should attempt to wear brown; somehow it kills her complexion if she is sallow.  Black, very dark blue, the softer shades of gray, are generally becoming if relieved with white.  Lavender and mauve can be becomingly worn by those dear old white-haired ladies who have pretty complexions.  The lemon-colored lady must avoid them.  We must remember Joubert’s saying:  “In clothes fresh and clean there is a kind of youth with which age should surround itself.”

Materials must be as handsome as can be afforded; soft wool materials may be chosen, cashmere, henrietta, voile, make up suitably.  In summer most old ladies can wear white to advantage.

Simplicity should be the guide as to styles.  Leave the fussy and elaborate to younger women, and adopt a dignified simplicity.

[Manners and social customs 771]

DUTIES OF A CHAPERON.