The cutaway coat is correct for church wear.  In summer it largely takes the place of the frock coat, which, with the silk hat, is usually “out of season,” so to speak, from about the middle of May until about the same time in September.  Straw or felt hats are worn.

Tweed flannel and cheviot suits are favorite summer wear for men, Flannel trousers, white with flannel shirt and leather belt, constitute the usual wear for tennis, golf, etc., and blue cheviot or serge for yachting.

Afternoon Wear.—­For formal afternoon wear the double-breasted frock coat of black worsted, with waistcoat of the same or of white duck, is reserved, dark gray pin-stripe trousers are worn with it, patent leather shoes, gray gloves, silk hat and standing linen collar.  The standing collar is for formal wear.  This attire is suitable for all social affairs between noon and evening.

After dinner evening clothes—­the “dress suit”—­are worn.  This has been fully described in the chapter on wedding etiquette, under the head of correct dress.

Incongruity in Dress.—­A man must avoid incongruities in dress.  Tan shoes are inadmissible with formal afternoon dress.  They do not accompany a silk hat.  A lawn tie is never worn save with evening clothes, nor a turn-down collar with them.  Gloves should be inconspicuous.  A man’s hands encased in bright tan gloves make one think of sugar-cured hams.

The Tuxedo is a dinner coat, hence never seen before six o’clock; it must not be worn at a theatre party, or if a man escorts ladies.  It may be worn in summer at informal dinners, and at summer hotels.  Silk hat, white waistcoat, or white lawn tie are not correct wear with a Tuxedo.

APPROPRIATE DRESS FOR WOMEN.

The real beauty of dress resides in being suitably gowned.  Suit the attire to the time and place.  Fashion prescribes and regulates styles; etiquette settles the appropriate garb for the occasion.  Every detail, from shoes to hat, should be harmonious and suited to the occasion and consequently to the hour of the day.  But how many, many violations of this rule we see!  Ostrich feathers worn with shirtwaists; low shoes on the street; dressy hats in the morning; jewels at breakfast—­all inappropriate and unrelated!

The correct street wear in the morning in the winter is a tailored suit with medium sized hat in felt or beaver, walking shoes, and rather heavy gloves in glace kid.  More elaborate suits or gowns in fine smooth cloth or velvet are worn at afternoon functions, for calling and receptions.  One does not choose light or showy colors for these if she must walk or take a street car.  Ostrich feathers can be worn on the velvet or satin hat that accompanies this costume, which is completed by patent leather shoes and white or pearl-gray gloves.

[Manners and social customs 769]

When Decollete Gowns are Worn.—­High-necked and long-sleeved gowns are worn at every daytime function.