It is quite customary to borrow the black garments worn at the funeral.  These should be returned immediately after the funeral, with a message or note of thanks.

It is well to look over one’s wardrobe to see what garments may be colored for use during the period of mourning.  The art of the dyer has made such progress that very satisfactory results are obtained, and quite wealthy people do not hesitate to resort to this expedient.

Mourning Wear.—­Crepe, ugly, expensive and easily ruined by dust and dampness, is no longer indispensable to a mourning outfit.  If used at all, it is in the form of hems or narrow bands on face veils and as borders or facings, on gowns.  Even widows, who wear the deepest mourning, no longer wear crepe veils.

All dress materials for mourning wear have a dull finish.  Henrietta, imperial serges, tamese cloth and nun’s veiling are the standard fabrics.  A lusterless silk is sometimes employed, also crepe de chine.

Crepe is used as a trimming only during the first period of mourning.  Hats have almost entirely replaced bonnets, except for elderly widows, who often adopt the close-fitting Marie Stuart bonnet, with the white ruche inside the brim.  A long veil of fine silk nun’s veiling is worn with this, with a tulle or net face veil with a narrow fold of crepe.  Veils of crepe or nun’s veiling are not worn over the face except at the funeral.

Hats with crepe folds and trimmings, with veils arranged to fall in folds in the back are usually selected; with them is worn a plain net face veil.  Dotted veils are not mourning.  Black furs, lynx, fox or Persian lamb are worn.

Many women wear narrow lawn turn-over collars and cuffs; they are hemstitched, with no other decoration.  Black-bordered handkerchiefs are no longer carried; if, however, one’s woeful trappings must extend to this detail, the narrower the edge the better.

[Manners and social customs 753]

Either black glace kid or suede gloves are worn.  Shoes and slippers must be in a dull kid finish.

All white may be worn in summer during the later period of mourning, but combinations of black and white are not mourning; thus a white dress with black ribbons is not correct.

Jewelry (in gold), ostrich feathers, velvet, lace, satin, and jet trimmings, except in dull jet, are barred.  One may wear a diamond or pearl ring or two, but no colored jewels set in rings.  Some women have outer shells made in black enamel to enclose diamond ear-rings they are accustomed to wearing.

If one wears mourning, she should hold to the correct form.  If, however, she elects to wear black, more license is permitted her.  Whatever is done, should be consistent.  Thus if she simply adopts black she may have a net or all-over lace yoke in a gown, may wear hats with wings and quills or fancy feathers in black, or black flowers—­which are botanical monstrosities—­whereas in correct mourning she could not.