There must be a service plate at each place.  These are to be as handsome as you can afford.  At the side of this is laid the dinner napkin, within which a roll is folded.  The guest removes the napkin, unfolding it for use.  The waitress removes the service plate and puts down another on which is a grapefruit, vermouth, or other kind of cocktail.  This plate and glass removed, there comes another plate, and little dishes of caviarre are passed.  These plates also disappear, others are substituted, and soup is served.  After the soup is eaten the soup plates are removed, leaving the other plates, and celery and radishes and salted nuts and olives are passed, not necessarily all, but at least two, say celery and olives; nuts and radishes.  If the little individual almond dishes are used, of course the salted nuts will not be passed.

These plates are again changed when the fish is served, the rule being that at no time during the dinner must a guest be without a plate before him until the table is cleared for dessert.  Moreover, the waitress, in placing plates that have a monogram or heraldic device for decoration, must so place the plate before each guest that the design faces him.  In taking up the plates, one is taken up with the right hand while with the left the waitress replaces it with another; one plate is never placed upon another.

The fish, meat, and other courses are served from the pantry, the portions being arranged for convenience in helping, and garnished with parsley or lemon.  The dish is passed first to the guest seated at the host’s right hand, next to the one on the left, and afterwards in regular rotation, irrespective of sex.  All service is at the left; this leaves the guest’s right hand in position to help himself.  The waitress holds the dish upon a folded napkin on the flat of her hand, and low down.  Vegetables are passed in the same fashion.

You will see how much depends upon having well trained servants at such a dinner.  The service must be without haste, yet without delay; there must be no clatter of china and silver, no awkwardness in removing plates, etc.  The waitress must be quick to refill glasses or supply whatever is needed.

[700 Mothers’ remedies]

The Help Required.—­A dinner to twelve or fourteen guests cannot be served properly without two or three waiters—­usually men at such large dinners—­and additional help in the kitchen.  So much thought and anxiety are required for the success of a home dinner party that it is small wonder many prefer to add a little to the expense, in cities at least, and order a dinner for the requisite number at hotel or club, where the responsibility rests with the management after the details of the menu are settled.  Such a dinner is less of a compliment to one’s guests than the entertainment at one’s own home, however; and why should one possess stores of beautiful and expensive furnishings without their use?