pastures, while the huts of the inhabitants peep out
at intervals from among the trees. Valleys and
plains, even in some places the slopes of the hills,
are sparsely covered with those delicate aromatic
herbs which affect a stony soil. Their life is
a perpetual struggle against the sun: scorched,
dried up, to all appearance dead, and so friable that
they crumble to pieces in the fingers when one attempts
to gather them, the spring rains annually infuse into
them new life, and bestow upon them, almost before
one’s eyes, a green and perfumed youth of some
days’ duration. The summits of the hills
remain always naked, and no vegetation softens the
ruggedness of their outlines, or the glare of their
colouring. The core of the peninsula is hewn,
as it were, out of a block of granite, in which white,
rose-colour, brown, or black predominate, according
to the quantities of felspar, quartz, or oxides of
iron which the rocks contain. Towards the north,
the masses of sandstone which join on to Gebel et-Tih
assume all possible shades of red and grey, from a
delicate lilac neutral tint to dark purple. The
tones of colour, although placed crudely side by side,
present nothing jarring nor offensive to the eye;
the sun floods all, and blends them in his light.
The Sinaitic peninsula is at intervals swept, like
the desert to the east of Egypt, by terrible tempests,
which denude its mountains and transform its wadys
into so many ephemeral torrents. The Monitu who
frequented this region from the dawn of history did
not differ much from the “Lords of the Sands;”
they were of the same type, had the same costume,
the same arms, the same nomadic instincts, and in
districts where the soil permitted it, made similar
brief efforts to cultivate it. They worshipped
a god and a goddess whom the Egyptians identified
with Horus and Hathor; one of these appeared to represent
the light, perhaps the sun, the other the heavens.
They had discovered at an early period in the sides
of the hills rich metalliferous veins, and strata,
bearing precious stones; from these they learned to
extract iron, oxides of copper and manganese, and
turquoises, which they exported to the Delta.
The fame of their riches, carried to the banks of
the Nile, excited the cupidity of the Pharaohs; expeditions
started from different points of the valley, swept
down upon the peninsula, and established themselves
by main force in the midst of the districts where
the mines lay. These were situated to the north-west,
in the region of sandstone, between the western branch
of Gebel et-Tih and the Gulf of Suez. They were
collectively called Mafkait, the country of turquoises,
a fact which accounts for the application of the local
epithet, lady of Mafkait, to Hathor. The earliest
district explored, that which the Egyptians first attacked,
was separated from the coast by a narrow plain and
a single range of hills: the produce of the mines
could be thence transported to the sea in a few hours
without difficulty. Pharaoh’s labourers
called this region the district of Baifc, the mine
par excellence, or of Bebit, the country of
grottoes, from the numerous tunnels which their predecessors
had made there: the name Wady Maghara, Valley
of the Cavern, by which the site is now designated,
is simply an Arabic translation of the old Egyptian
word.