point.  Lord Armstrong, the millionaire shipbuilder, had purchased this castle—­almost a complete ruin—­and when he began restoration only the Norman tower of the keep was intact; and besides this there was little except the foundation walls.  Lord Armstrong entirely rebuilt the castle, following the original plan and designs, and the result is one of the most striking and pleasing of the palatial residences in England.  The situation, on a high headland extending into the ocean, commands a view in every direction and completely dominates the sleepy little village lying just beneath.  The castle is of great antiquity, the records showing that a fortress had been built on this side in the Fifth Century by Ida, King of Northumberland, though the present building largely reproduces the features of the one founded in the time of the Conqueror.

[Illustration:  Bamborough castle, Northumberland.]

Lord Armstrong died the year before the work on the castle was completed and it passed into the hands of his nephew.  It is open to visitors only one day in the week, and it happened, as usual, that we had arrived on the wrong day.  Fortunately, the family were absent, and our plea that we were Americans who had come a long distance to see the place was quite as effective here as in other cases.  The housekeeper showed us the palace in detail that we could hardly have hoped for under other circumstances.  The interior is fitted in the richest and most magnificent style, and I have never seen the natural beauties of woodwork brought out with better effect.  How closely the old-time construction was followed in the restoration is shown by the fact that the great open roof of the banqueting hall is put together with wooden pins, no nail having been used.  The castle has every modern convenience, even hot-water heating—­a rare thing in England—­being installed.  When we saw what an excellent result had been attained in the restoration, we could not but wonder that such a thing has not oftener been done.  In the village churchyard is the massive gray granite monument erected to the memory of Grace Darling, who lived and died in Bamborough, and a brass tablet in the ancient church is inscribed with the record of her heroism.  The lighthouse which was kept by her father is just off Bamborough Head, and it was from this, in the face of a raging storm, that she launched her frail boat and saved several people from a foundering ship.  Only four years later she succumbed to consumption, but her unparalleled bravery has made the name of this young girl a household word wherever the English language is spoken.

On leaving Bamborough we came as nearly getting lost in the narrow, winding byways as at any time during our tour.  A bridge under repair on the direct route to the main road compelled us to resort to byways which were unmarked by signboards and in as ill condition as many American roads.  Nor could the people of whom we inquired give us intelligent direction.  We finally reached the road again after a loss of an hour or more.