interspersed with the villages, the whole country appearing
like a vast beautifully kept park. The story
of Ludlow Castle is too long to tell here, but no
one who delights in the romance of the days of chivalry
should fail to familiarize himself with it. The
castle was once a royal residence and the two young
princes murdered in London Tower by the agents of
Richard III dwelt here for many years. In 1636
Milton’s “Mask of Comus,” suggested
by the youthful adventures of the children of the
Lord President, was performed in the castle courtyard.
The Lord of the castle at one time was Henry Sidney,
father of Sir Philip, and his coat-of-arms still remains
over one of the entrances. But the story of love
and treason, of how in the absence of the owner of
the castle, Maid Marion admitted her clandestine lover,
who brought a hundred armed men at his back to slay
the inmates and capture the fortress, is the saddest
and most tragic of all. We saw high up in the
wall, frowning over the river, the window of the chamber
from which she had thrown herself after slaying her
recreant lover in her rage and despair. A weird
story it is, but if the luckless maiden still haunts
the scene of her blighted love, an observant sojourner
who fitly writes of Ludlow in poetic phrase never
saw her. “Nearly every midnight for a month,”
he says, “it fell to me to traverse the quarter
of a mile of dark, lonely lane that leads beneath
the walls of the castle to the falls of the river,
and a spot more calculated to invite the wanderings
of a despairing and guilty spirit, I never saw.
But though the savage gray towers far above shone betimes
in the moonlight and the tall trees below rustled
weirdly in the night breeze and the rush of the river
over the weir rose and fell as is the wont of falling
water in the silence of the night, I looked in vain
for the wraith of the hapless maiden of the heath
and finally gave up the quest.”
[Illustration: Ludlow castle, the
keep and entrance.]
When we left the castle, though nearly noon, the custodian
was still belated, and we yet owe him sixpence for
admittance, which we hope to pay some time in person.
A short walk brought us to the church—“the
finest parish church in England,” declares one
well qualified to judge. “Next to the castle,”
he says, “the glory of Ludlow is its church,
which has not only the advantage of a commanding site
but, as already mentioned, is held to be one of the
finest in the country.” It is built of
red sandstone and is cruciform in shape, with a lofty
and graceful tower, which is a landmark over miles
of country and beautiful from any point of view.
I have already mentioned the chime of bells which flings
its melodies every few hours over the town and which
are hung in this tower. The monuments, the stained-glass
windows and the imposing architecture are scarcely
equalled by any other church outside of the cathedrals.
We had made the most of our stay in Ludlow, but it
was all too short. The old town was a revelation
to us, as it would be to thousands of our countrymen
who never think of including it in their itinerary.
But for the motor car, it would have remained undiscovered
to us. With the great growth of this method of
touring, doubtless thousands of others will visit
the place in the same manner, and be no less pleased
than we were.