possession of Klagenfurt would give them virtual control
of the principal railway entering Austria from the
south, and that such control would probably enable
them to divert much of Austria’s traffic from
the Italian ports of Venice and Trieste to their own
port of Fiume, which they confidently expected would
be awarded them by the Peace Conference, lost no time
in occupying the town with a considerable force of
troops. They further justified this occupation
by asserting that Jugoslavia was entitled to Carinthia
on ethnological grounds and that the inhabitants of
Klagenfurt were clamoring for Jugoslav rule. In
view of these developments, I had expected to find
Jugoslav soldiery in the town, but I had not expected
to be challenged, a mile or so outside the town, by
a sentry who was, judging from his appearance, straight
from a comitadji band in the Macedonian mountains.
He was a sullen-faced fellow wearing a fur cap and
a nondescript uniform, with an assortment of weapons
thrust in his belt, according to the custom of the
Balkan guerrillas, and with two bandoliers, stuffed
with cartridges, slung across his chest. He was
as incongruous a figure in that pleasant German countryside
as one of Pancho Villa’s bandits would have
been in the Connecticut Valley. And Klagenfurt,
which is a well-built, well-paved, thoroughly modern
Austrian town, was occupied by several hundred of his
fellows, brought from somewhere in the Balkans, I
should imagine, for the express purpose of aweing
the population. It was perfectly apparent that
the inhabitants, far from welcoming these fierce-looking
fighters as brother-Slavs and friends, were only too
anxious to have them take their departure, having
about as much in common with them, in appearance,
manners and speech, as a New Englander has with an
Apache Indian. So great was the tension existing
in Klagenfurt that a commission had been sent by the
Peace Conference to study the question on the spot,
its members communicating with the Supreme Council
in Paris by means of American couriers, slim young
fellows in khaki who wore on their arms the blue brassard,
embroidered with the scales of justice, which was the
badge of messengers employed by the Peace Commission.
A few miles outside of Klagenfurt my attention was attracted by an iron paling, in a field beside the road, enclosing a gigantic chair carved from stone. My curiosity aroused, I stopped the car to examine it. From a faded inscription attached to the gate I learned that this was the crowning chair of the Dukes of Carinthia, in which the ancient rulers of this region had sat to be crowned. There it stands in a field beside the highway, neglected and forgotten, a curious link with a picturesque and far-distant past.