Krusevatz market-place is like the setting of a Serbian opera.  The houses are the kind of houses that occupy the back scenery of opera, and in the middle is an abominable statue commemorating something, which is just in the bad taste which would mar an opera setting.  There was an old man wandering about with two knapsacks, one on his back and one on his chest, and from the orifice of each peered out innumerable ducks’ heads.  We returned to the station at nine, but were told that nothing could be done till one.  So we went up to the churchyard, spread our mackintoshes, and got a much-needed sleep.  The church is very old, but isn’t much to look at, and we, being no archaeologists, would sooner look at that of Trsternick, though it is modern.

We returned to the station to unload our trucks, for at this point the broad-gauge line ceases, and there is but a narrow-gauge into the mountains.  A band of Austrian prisoners were detailed to help us, and they at once recognized us, and knew that we came from Vrntze.  They were in a wretched condition:  their clothes were torn, they said that they had no change of underclothes, and were swarming with vermin, nor could they be cleaned, for they worked even on Sundays, and had no time to wash their clothes.  They begged us for soap, and asked us to send them a change of raiment from Vrntze.  We explained sadly that we were not going back just yet, but we could oblige them with the soap, for a case had been broken open, and the waggon was strewn with bars.  We also gave some to the engine-driver, as a bribe to shunt us gently.

We imagined that the soap had burst because of the shunting, but in our second truck discovered that this same shunting had been strangely selective.  It had, for instance, opened a case of brandy, it had burst a box of tinned tongue, and even opened some of the tins which were strewn in the truck.  And yet the truck had been sealed, both doors.  Several cases of biscuits, too, had been abstracted, and all this must have happened under the very noses of the Englishmen who had supervised the loading.  Some of the prisoners said that they were starving, so we distributed our spare crusts amongst them, and they ate them greedily enough.

In the fields by the railway were queer pallid green plants which puzzled us.  They were like tall cabbages, and shone with a curious ghostly intensity in the gloaming.

We dangled our feet over the side of our waggon watching the flitting scenery.  At one point we passed a train in which were other English people, who stared amazed at us and waved their hands as we disappeared.  Dusk was down when we passed Vrntze, and we reached the gorges of Ovchar in the dark.  We thundered through tunnels and out over hanging precipices, the river beneath us a faint band of greyish light in the blackness of the mountains.

Uzhitze in the morning at 4.30; it was cold and wet.  Jan wanted to hurry off to the hotel, but Jo sensibly refused, and we settled down till a decent hour.