Arriving at an hour when, in the more fastidious capitals of Europe, housemaids and milkmen hold undisputed sway, I found groups of the wealthier citizens collected under the trees which surround the cafe, making their morning meal, and discussing the local news the while.  Later in the day ices and beer were in great demand, and in the evening the beauty and fashion of Ragusa congregated to hear the beautiful band of the regiment ‘Marmola.’  The hotel, if it deserve the name, is scarce fifty yards distant; it possesses a cuisine which contrasts favourably with the accommodation which the house affords.

The table d’hote dinner is served in a kind of vaulted kitchen, the walls of which are hung round with scenes illustrative of the Italian campaign.  The series, which comprises desperate cavalry charges, death wounds of general officers, and infantry advancing amidst perfect bouquets of shot and shell, closes appropriately with the pacific meeting of the two Emperors at Villafranca.

Here, then, I proposed to take up my quarters, making it the starting-point for expeditions to the Val d’Ombla, the beautiful Bocche di Cattaro, and Cettigne, the capital of Montenegro; but it was destined otherwise, and night found me on board a country fishing-boat, the bearer of despatches to Omer Pacha at Mostar, or wherever he might happen to be.

[Footnote A:  Gibbon, chap. xiii.]

[Footnote B:  Adams’ ‘Ruins of Spalatro,’ p. 6.]

CHAPTER II.

Military Road to Metcovich—­Country Boat—­Stagno—­Port of Klek—­Disputed Frontier—­Narentine Pirates—­Valley of the Narenta—­Trading Vessels—­Turkish Frontier—­Facilities for Trade granted by Austria—­Narenta—­Fort Opus—­Hungarian Corporal—­Metcovich—­Irish Adventurer—­Gabella—­Pogitel—­Dalmatian Engineer—­Telegraphic Communication—­Arrival at Mostar—­Omer Pacha—­Object of Campaign.

The change in my plans, and my precipitate departure from Ragusa, were the results of information which I there received.  From M. Persich, the Ottoman Consul, whom I take this opportunity of thanking for his courtesy and kindness, I learned that the Turkish Generalissimo might be expected to leave Mostar for the frontier at any moment, and that the disturbed state of the country would render it perilous, if not impossible, to follow him thither.  This determined me to push on at once, postponing my visit to Montenegro to a more fitting season.  To make some necessary purchases, and to engage a servant, was the work of a few hours, and, being supplied by the Captano of the Circolo with the necessary vises and letters of recommendation to the subordinate officials through whose districts I should have to pass, it only remained to decide upon the mode of travelling which I should adopt, and to secure the requisite conveyance.  My first point was Metcovich, a small town on the right bank of the Narenta, and close to the frontier