During my stay at Mostar the town was enlivened by the occurrence of the Emperor Alexander’s birthday, or the ‘Emperor’s day,’ as it is called.  In celebration of this auspicious event, the Russian Consul kept open house, everyone who could muster decent apparel being admitted.  After the ceremony of blessing the Muscovite flag had been performed by the Greek Bishop, a select few sat down to a kind of breakfast, which did credit to the hospitality of his Imperial Majesty’s representative.  Thither I accompanied Omer Pacha, who was attended by a small suite.  This was the only occasion on which I ever observed anything like display in the Turkish General.  His gold-embroidered dress resembled that of a Marshal of France; his breast was literally covered with decorations, in the centre of which was the Grand Cross of the Bath, and he carried a magnificently-jewelled sword, the gift of the late Sultan, Abdul Medjid.  He did not, however, remain long, and on emerging I could not help contrasting the festivities within with the signs of warlike preparation which jostled one at every turn, the first fruits, in great measure, of Russian imperial policy.  Strings of ponies laden with forage, and provisions for the army on the frontier, passed continuously, and the streets presented a more than usually gay and variegated appearance.  Omer Pacha was throughout indefatigable.  Detachments of irregulars arrived daily, some of which were immediately pushed up to the scene of operations; others were retained at Mostar; but whether they went, or stayed behind, he inspected them alike, and was always received with marked enthusiasm.  I must not omit to mention that amongst these reinforcements was a body of 1,000 Christians, who, however, were never sent to the frontier.  Fine fellows they were, all armed with rifles of native construction.  These arms of precision are mostly made in Bosnia, where there are two or three establishments for that purpose.

Thus the days wore on; and, having provided myself with horses, and such few things as are deemed indispensable for campaigning, I was delighted to receive a message from the Generalissimo, on the night of the 13th, intimating his intention of leaving Mostar at 8 (a la Franca) on the following morning.

But before I enter upon my personal experiences in the camp of the Osmanlis, I would fain give some account of the previous history of this agitated province; passing in brief review those causes which combined to foster a revolutionary spirit in the country, and dwelling more especially on the events of the last four years, during which that spirit has so culminated as to convince even the Porte of the necessity which exists for the immediate employment of coercive measures.

[Footnote K:  Mostar, from ‘Most Star’ Old Bridge.]

[Footnote L:  Sir G. Wilkinson.]

CHAPTER VIII.