While awaiting the departure of the Generalissimo for the seat of war, to which he had kindly invited me to accompany him, I employed myself in wandering about those crooked byways, and studying the many phases of Turco-European humanity.  That my impressions of the town were very favourable, I am not prepared to state; but I believe that in point of cleanliness it is superior to many.  It is situated on both banks of the Narenta, in a gorge which opens out into two small plains, at its N. and S. extremities.  The eastern and larger part is built on an acclivity, and contains the bazaar, government offices, and the houses of the traders and the richer inhabitants.  The western part is occupied by the poorer classes, who are for the most part Catholics, and are employed in agricultural pursuits.  The gardens, which supply the town with vegetables, are upon this side, and the soil is more fruitful, though marshy and feverish.  On the eastern side it is healthy, sandy, and dry.  The dwelling-houses are generally small and comfortless, indifferently built, and roofed with stone.  As in India, they are always surrounded with a compound—­for it cannot be called garden—­which gives the town a rambling and extended appearance.

The shops are small and ill-supplied, and the streets narrow and tortuous, except the two main ones, which are tolerably broad, and run parallel to each other in a nearly straight course N. and S. They have raised footpaths, roughly constructed, and swarming with animal life, as is to be expected in the luxurious East.  There are no fewer than thirty mosques in the town, whose minarets give it a beautiful and picturesque appearance, albeit that the buildings themselves are imperfect, and ungainly in architectural detail.  The Mussulmans have a school in the town, where Turkish and Slavish are taught.  Girls are, however, debarred this advantage, and indeed no institution of any kind exists throughout the province for their training or instruction.  The result is that the female population is, if possible, in a lower state of degradation than the male.  The religious and secular education of the Christians is as little considered as that of the Mussulmans.  Thus the only place of worship which the Greeks possess is a small chapel on the outskirts, to which is attached a school for boys, which is attended by about two hundred children.  Since Omer Pacha’s arrival during the past year, a peal of bells has been placed in this chapel.  The superstition which prevails amongst Turks, ’that bells drive away good spirits from the abodes of men,’ renders this concession the more grateful, and it is only another proof that the Mussulmans of the present day are not so intolerant as they are represented.  No restrictions, indeed, are placed upon religious ceremonies or public processions of any kind.  With regard to church bells, I may add that their use has always been considered tantamount to a recognition of Christianity as the established religion of the place.  In some towns, where Christians predominated, the concession had been made long before their introduction at Mostar.