It therefore appeared the better plan to go up in it to Sissek, than to await its return to Brod.  By this means I was enabled to see many of the towns and villages on the Bosnian, Slavonian, and Croatian frontiers.  Leaving my servant and horses at Brod, I went on board the steamer as soon as it arrived.  The scene I there found was curious.  In a small saloon, of which the windows were all shut, and the immense stove lighted, were about thirty persons, three or four of whom were females, the remainder merchants and Austrian officers.  The atmosphere was so oppressive that I applied for a private cabin, a luxury which is paid for, in all German companies, over and above the regular fare.  I was told that I might have one for eleven florins a night.  To this I demurred, but was told that any reduction was impossible; it was the tariff.  At length the inspector came on board; to him I appealed, and received the same answer.  After a little conversation, he agreed to break through a rule.  I might have it for seven florins.  No! well, he would take the five which I had originally offered; and so I got my cabin.  That it was the nicest little room possible, I must admit, with its two large windows, a maple table, a large mirror, and carpeted floor; and a very much pleasanter resting-place than the hot saloon.  The night was rainy and dark, and we lay-to throughout the greater part of it, as is the invariable rule on the Save, and even on the Danube during the autumn months.  At eight on the following morning we touched at Gradiska.  There are two towns of the name, the old one standing close to the river, and embellished with a dilapidated castle; the new town being about an hour’s distance inland.

About noon we reached Cenovatz, which, like the other towns and villages on the frontier, might be mistaken rather for a Turkish than a German town.

The Castle of Cenovatz is an irregular quadrilateral, with three round and one square tower at the angles.  It is now occupied by priests.  It is interesting from its connection with the military history of the country.  There, on a tongue of land which projects into the river, waved the flag of France during the occupation of the Illyrian provinces by the old Napoleon, while on the main land on either side the sentinels of Austria and Turkey were posted in close juxtaposition.  Hence it has received the name of “la lingua di tre regni.”

At six o’clock the same evening we entered the River Culpa, at the mouth of which is the town of Sissek.

It has a thrifty and cleanly appearance, and possesses two very fair inns.  The saloon of one of these appeared to be the rendezvous of the opulent townspeople.  Music, chess, billiards, and tobacco-smoke, appeared to be the amusements most in vogue; the indulgence in the latter being of course universal.  Here I took leave of my companions of the steamer, whose loss I much regretted, especially M. Burgstaller, a gentleman of much intelligence, who requested me to