At one part of our route a landslip of large dimensions had taken place, covering the slope to the river with large stones and blocks of red marble.  This, as well as white, black, and gray marble, are found in large quantities in the surrounding hills.  The river at this point is turgid and rocky, and there are two or three rapids almost worthy of the name of falls.  The narrow rocky ledge, which constitutes the only traversable road, immediately overhangs the water, having a sheer descent on the right of nearly 200 feet.  The edge of this precipice is overgrown with grass and shrubs to such a degree as to render it very dangerous.  Indeed it nearly proved fatal to my horse and myself:  the bank suddenly gave way, and but for the fortunate intervention of a projecting ledge, which received the off fore and hind feet of the former, we should inevitably have been picked up in very small pieces, if anyone had taken the trouble to look for us.

Having now journeyed about ten hours from Mostar, our road wound to the left, leaving the Narenta at its confluence with the Drechnitza, which waters the valley of the same name.  Close to its mouth, which is spanned by a neat two-arched bridge, a Ban is said to have lived in former days; and a solitary rock projecting from the hills on the left bank is pointed out as his favourite resort.  The summit of this is smoothed off, and traces of an inscription still exist, but too much defaced to be deciphered.

[Footnote S:  Luccari.]

[Footnote T:  Gardner Wilkinson, vol. ii.]

CHAPTER XVI.

Wealthy Christians—­German Encyclopaedia—­Feats of Skill—­Legend of Petral—­Chamois-hunting—­Valley of Druga—­Excavations—­Country Carts—­Plain of Duvno—­Mahmoud Effendi—­Old Tombs—­Duvno—­Fortress—­Bosnian Frontier—­Vidosa—­Parish Priest—­National Music—­Livno—­Franciscan Convent—­Priestly Incivility—­Illness—­Quack Medicines—­Hungarian Doctor—­Military Ambulance—­Bosna Serai—­Osman Pacha—­Popularity—­Roads and Bridges—­Mussulman Rising in Turkish Croatia—­Energy of Osman Pacha.

The family with whom we purposed spending the succeeding days were reputed to be the wealthiest of the Christians in that part of the country.  It will perhaps convey a more correct impression of their means, if we say that they were less poverty-stricken than others.  A few cows, some half-dozen acres of arable land, and a fair stock of poultry, constituted their claim to being considered millionaires.  The household consisted, besides father and mother, of two rather pretty girls, two sons, and their cousin, who cultivated the land and hunted chamois regularly every Sunday.  Besides these there were some little boys, whose only occupation appeared to be to bring fire for the pipes of their elders.  Our arrival, and the prospect of a bye day after the chamois, threw all the men of the party into a state of great excitement.  Minute was the inspection of our guns, rifles, and