though perceptible enough to a Roman, appeared to
a stranger but a step above absolute stagnation.
I never could get over my astonishment at our utter
ignorance of what went on around and amongst us.
About the state of affairs in our two neighbouring
countries, whether in free Tuscany or in despotic
Naples, we were entirely in the dark. What little
news we got was derived from chance reports of stray
travellers, or from the French and English newspapers.
The Giornale di Roma gave us now and then a
damnatory paragraph about the Tuscan Government, from
which, out of a mass of vituperation, we could pick
up an odd fact or so; but during the first four months
of this year, throughout which period I perused the
Giornale pretty carefully, I do not remember
to have seen a single allusion, good, bad or indifferent,
to the kingdom of Naples. The Tuscan papers
were naturally enough forbidden, as are almost all
the journals of the free Italian states, and could
only be obtained by private hands. The Neapolitan
Gazette, the Monitore del Regno delle Due Sicilie,
was never seen by any chance, though I cannot suppose
its circulation was directly interdicted. The
communication between Rome and Naples was, and is,
scanty in the extreme. During the last ten years,
about ten miles of the Pio-Centrale Railroad, the
Neapolitan line, have been opened. At present
beyond Albano the works are entirely at a stand-still,
and there are still some thirty miles of line, between
Rome and the frontier, of which hardly a sod has been
turned. The Civita Vecchia line has only been
completed in consequence of the pressure of the French
authorities, and the Ancona-Florence line is still
in statu quo. Three times a week there
are diligences between Rome and Naples. The local
steam-boats, which used to run along the coast from
Porto d’Anzio to the Neapolitan capital have
been given up, and in fact there is no ready means
of transit, save by the foreign steamers, which touch
at Civita Vecchia. Whether purposely or not,
everything has been done to check free communication
between the Papal and Neapolitan States, and in this
respect the Government has been eminently successful.
The two countries are totally distinct. A Neapolitan
is a forestiere in Rome, and vice versa.
The divide et impera has been the motto of
all the petty Italian despots and of the Papacy in
particular, and hitherto has proved successful.
Even now, as far as I could see and learn, the desire
for Italian unity does not penetrate very low down.
It is the desire, I freely grant, of all the best
and wisest Italians, but scarcely, I suspect, the
wish of the Italian people. In truth, Italy at
this moment is very much what Great Britain would
be, if Scotland, Ireland, Wales and the States of
the Saxon Heptarchy had remained to this day separate
petty kingdoms, ruled by governments who fostered
and developed every local and sectional jealousy.
The broad fact, that for some weeks at Rome we were
in utter ignorance whether there had been a revolution
or not in the capital of the frontier kingdom, not
thirty miles away, and should have been quite surprised
if we had learnt anything about the matter, is a sufficient
commentary on our state of isolation.