I sauntered on to Harry Gray’s,
The ennui of my heart
to lighten;
His landlady, with, smirk and smile,
Said, “he had just run
down to Brighton.”
When home I turned my steps, at last,
A tailor—whom to
kick were treason—
Pressed for his bill;—I hurried
past,
Politely saying—CALL
NEXT SEASON!
* * * * *
THE GENTLEMAN’S OWN BOOK.
We concluded our last article with a brief dissertation on the cut of the trousers; we will now proceed to the consideration of coats.
“The hour must come when such things must be made.”
For this quotation we are indebted to
[Illustration: THE POET’S PAGE.]
There are three kinds of coats—the body, the surtout, and the great.
The body-coat is again divided into classes, according to their application, viz.—the drawing-room, the ride, and the field.
The cut of the dress-coat is of paramount importance, that being the garment which decorates the gentleman at a time when he is naturally ambitious of going the entire D’Orsay. There is great nicety required in cutting this article of dress, so that it may at one and the same moment display the figure and waistcoat of the wearer to the utmost advantage. None but a John o’Groat’s goth would allow it to be imagined that the buttons and button-holes of this robe were ever intended to be anything but opposite neighbours, for a contrary conviction would imply the absence of a cloak in the hall or a cab at the door. We do not intend to give a Schneiderian dissertation upon garments; we merely wish to trace outlines; but to those who are anxious for a more intimate acquaintance with the intricacies and mysteries of the delightful and civilising art of cutting, we can only say, Vide Stultz.[1]
[1] Should any gentleman avail
himself of this hint, we should feel
obliged
if he would mention the source from whence it was
derived,
having a small account standing in that quarter, for
tailors
have gratitude.
The riding-coat is the connecting link between the DRESS and the rest of the great family of coats, as one button, and one only of this garment, may be allowed to be applied to his apparent use.
It is so cut, that the waistcoat pockets may be easy of access. Any gentleman who has attended races or other sporting meetings must have found the convenience of this arrangement; for where the course is well managed, as at Epsom, Ascot, Hampton, &c., by the judicious regulations of the stewards, the fingers are generally employed in the distribution of those miniature argentine medallions of her Majesty so particularly admired by ostlers, correct card-vendors, E.O. table-keepers, Mr. Jerry, and the toll-takers on the road and the course. The original idea of these coats was accidentally given by John Day, who was describing, on Nugee’s cutting-board, the exact curvature of Tattenham Corner.