The outset of a journey in the East is usually employed in finding out the vices of one’s servants.  Their virtues, I suppose, become manifest afterwards.  We were on the point of sending our chaouch back from Gharian for dishonesty; but as we reflected that any substitute might be still worse, we passed over the robbery of our barley, and merely determined to keep a good look-out.  This worthy, though useful in his sphere, often, as I had anticipated, proved a sad annoyance to us.  When he seemed to refrain from cheating and stealing, he rendered our lives troublesome by constant quarrellings and rows—­he and his fellow attached to my German companions—­Arcades ambo!

Mr. Frederick Warrington and the American Consul took leave of us on the morning of the 5th.  Starting afterwards about nine, we soon left the Castle of Gharian behind, and continued our course in a direction about south-west, amongst olive-woods and groves of fig-trees.  The country was varied enough in appearance as we proceeded.  Great masses of rock and cultivated slopes alternated.  The vegetation seemed all fresh, and sometimes vigorous.  Few birds, except wild pigeons, appeared.  Many of the heights which we passed were crowned with ruined castles, mementoes of the past dominion of the Arabs.  We saw some of the Troglodytes coming from underground now and then, and pausing to look at us.  Their dress is a simple barracan, or blanket-mantle, thrown around them; few indulge in the luxury of a shirt; and they go armed with a great thick stick terminating in a hook.  They look cleanly and healthy in spite of their burrowing life, but are fox-like in character as in manners, and bear a reputation for dishonesty.

A little after mid-day we descried afar off the village of Kaleebah, which is built above-ground, and occupies a most commanding position on a bold mountain-top.  It remained in sight ahead a long time, cheating us with an appearance of nearness.  The inhabitants resemble, in all respects, their mole-brethren, and occupy themselves chiefly in cultivating olives and barley.  Government exacts from them two imposts—­one special, of a hundred and fifty mahboubs on the olive-crops; and one general, of five hundred mahboubs.  We passed the village at length, and encamped an hour beyond.  Here were the last olive-groves which were to cheer our eyes for many a long month—­many a long year, maybe.  Their dark masses covered the swells right and left, and near at hand isolated trees formed pleasant patches of shadow.

We left our camping-ground at length next day, having overcome the obstinate sluggishness of the blacks, and marched nearly nine hours.  The barren forms of the desert begin now to appear, the ground being broken up into huge hills that run mostly in circles, and groups, and broad stony valleys.  The formation is limestone, often containing flints, with a little sandstone.  Patches of barley here and there splashed this arid surface with green.  At a great distance