We were kept idle a whole day by the rain; but starting on the second, turned off sharp in the afternoon towards the mountains, and encamped at length in a pretty place fronting the great ascent of Gharian.  The appearance of the chain here differs in no important particular from that of any other part of the Tripoline Atlas.  The formation is calcareous, but the colours vary to the eye by the admixture of minerals.  Groups of sandstone are not uncommon.  Rounded, rugged heads, vary the outline of the plateau; and here and there are deep, abrupt valleys, cut down through the range, with groves of fig-trees, almonds, aloes, pomegranates, and even grapes, nestling in their laps.  Bright water-courses, springing up in the depths of these ravines, sustain the streaks of half-buried verdure.

We rose early to commence the ascent.  It is not difficult unless the camels are very heavily laden; but we did not reach the Castle of Gharian until three in the afternoon.  Our caravan dotted with groups of various outline and colour the slopes of the spur, up the side of which the track wound, in a very picturesque manner.  Sometimes the foremost camels stood still and complained; and then there was a half-halt throughout the whole long line.  The drivers plied the stick pretty freely on the gaunt flanks of their beasts; the cry of “Isa!  Isa!” resounded in irregular chorus; pebbles and stones came leaping down at the steep parts.  As we rose over the brown slopes, the thin forests of olive-trees partly covering the undulating plateau beyond, with fields of barley and wheat here and there, gladdened our eyes, and contrasted well with the hungry country we had left in the rear.

The castle, sufficiently picturesque in structure, is placed over a deep ravine, but is commanded by the mountain behind.  We turned back on nearing it, and beheld the plain we had traversed appearing like the sea enveloped in mist and cloud.  In fine weather the minarets of Tripoli can be seen, but now the northern horizon faded off in haze.  On either hand the steep declivities of the hills presented a wall-like surface, here and there battered into breaches, from out of which burst little tufts of green, revealing the presence of springs.

There are 200 troops stationed at the castle under Colonel Saleh, to whom we paid an official visit; as also to the Kaid of Gharian.  In both cases we were hospitably treated to pipes, coffee, and lemonade.  In this canton are said to be the fanciful number of “one hundred and one” Arab districts, inhabited by the Troglodytes.  All the villages, indeed, hereabouts, are underground:  not a building is to be seen above, except at wide intervals an old miserable, crumbling, Arab fort.  The people are easily kept in order by the summary Turkish method of proceeding; for they are entirely disarmed, and matchlocks, powder and ball, are contraband articles.  The first word of an Oriental tax-gatherer is “Pay!” and the second is “Kill!”