26th.—­As usual, the caravan was got into marching order before daybreak, and returning to the track we proceeded rapidly.  Dawn revealed to us that we were still watched by the hostile population.  Three men, mounted on maharees, trotted along the hills, evidently in observation.  We soon got out of the desert country, and entered the fine wady of Kaltadak, rich with tropical vegetation.  The huge tholukhs were covered with a multitude of parasitical plants, that hung in festoons or trailed down towards the earth.  This valley runs winding round about the group of Tidek mountains, which have long been in view.  They say that it abounds in lions, and as we advanced we looked down the long glades that opened on either hand, expecting to see some monarch of the forest stopping to gaze at us as we passed.  We discovered, however, only three black ostriches moving slowly along in the distance,—­the first I have seen wild in Africa.  They appeared like dark moving lumps, the heads and necks not being discernible to the naked eye.  Our people did not attempt to chase them; and the gazelles that glanced near at hand were likewise suffered to depart in peace.  At noon we reached the well of Anamghur, where we drank some good water.  It was scooped out of the sandy, rocky bed of the wady.  A group of five asses had been driven down to it to drink.

As we advanced, about noon, a small group appeared ahead.  A person of consequence from Seloufeeat, known to our escort, was coming to meet us.  He advanced cordially, and told us that he had determined to be our protection.  We were sorry that any such aid was necessary; but it appeared from his report that there were more people collecting to attack the Christians, and get a share of their spoils.  In the evening we encamped in an open space clear of the trees, where we could see all around us, and use our arms if necessary.  Scarcely were we established when a troop of fifty men came near in a threatening manner, but did not attack us.  After dark, they increased to about a hundred.  They consisted of the sheikhs of the districts, with their followers and lawless men scraped together from various quarters.  Meanwhile our escort, who were anxious for their own safety as well as ours, had sent on to the City of Marabouts, Tintaghoda, and had prevailed on several of these holy men to protect them and us.  The night was spent in conference instead of in repose.  The hostile Sheikhs told our marabouts that they did not come to harm us, but to oblige us to become Muslims, for no infidel had ever, or ever should, pass through their country.  This proposition was at once, as a matter of business and profession, approved of by our protecting marabouts.  What priest ever shrunk from the prospect of a conversion?