partly because, to tell the truth, I had scarcely got any, and partly because I was afraid of being robbed by brigands of the little I had.  I therefore eschewed the character of a milordo Inglese; but I never succeeded in dispelling all suspicion that I might not be a nephew of the Queen, or at least a very near relative of “Palmerston” in disguise.  It was so natural, seeing what a deep interest both her Majesty and the Prime Minister took in Italy, that they should send some one incognito whom they could trust to tell them all about it.

Meantime, I was not surprised, when I came to know the disposition of the inhabitants, at the success of brigandage.  It has never been my fortune before or since to live among such a timid population.  One day at a large town a leading landed proprietor received notice that if he did not pay a certain sum in black-mail,—­I forget at this distance of time the exact amount,—­his farm or masseria would be robbed.  This farm, which was in fact a handsome country-house, was distant about ten miles from the town.  He therefore made an appeal to the citizens that they should arm themselves, and help him to defend his property, as he had determined not to pay, and had taken steps to be informed as to the exact date when the attack was to be made in default of payment.  More than 300 citizens enrolled themselves as willing to turn out in arms.  On the day preceding the attack by the brigands, a rendezvous was given to these 300 on the great square for five in the morning, and thither I accordingly repaired, unable, however, to induce my host to accompany me, although he had signed as a volunteer.  On reaching the rendezvous, I found the landed proprietor and a friend who was living with him, and about ten minutes afterwards two other volunteers strolled up.  Five was all we could muster out of 300.  It was manifestly useless to attempt anything with so small a force, and no arguments could induce any of the others to turn out:  so the unhappy gentleman had the satisfaction of knowing that the brigands had punctually pillaged his place, carrying off all his live stock on the very day and at the very hour they said they would.  As for the inhabitants venturing any distance from town, except under military escort, such a thing was unknown, and all communication with Naples was for some time virtually intercepted.  I was regarded as a sort of monomaniac of recklessness, because I ventured on a solitary walk of a mile or two in search of a sketch,—­an act of no great audacity on my part, for I had walked through various parts of the country without seeing a brigand, and found it difficult to realise that there was any actual danger in strolling a mile from a moderately large town.