The first sight of really civilised country was obtained at this period.  On the way, the cultivated areas round Ramleh[5] were visible as far as the eye could reach.  This was indeed a very pleasant change from the barren and uncultivated tracts—­the interminable stretches of rocky and boulder-strewn ground, intersected by apparently unbounded areas of flat, dust-covered wastes:—­

    “Dust in heaps and dust in piles, dust in shifting ridges;
    Dust and dust for miles and miles, and what ’aint dust is midges”.

So quoth the cynic; and the peculiar part about it is that, wherever are large stretches of dusty ground, so also there is the wind! and nothing need be said of the result of a combat between these two forces.

[Illustration]

All thoughts of the country left behind, however, were immediately banished from the mind at the sight of that which lay before us, and anticipation ran high in the belief that these were the wonderful orange-groves which, one had heard, were supposed to be situated in this part of Palestine.  Expectations were realised, and on nearing Deiran, orchard upon orchard were passed with trees bending under the weight of hundreds of large and delicious Jaffa oranges!  Everyone purchased as many as it was possible to carry, and those who had no available cash, managed to satisfy their wants by means of barter—­incidentally, be it whispered, many an odd tin of “bully” found its way into the local inhabitants’ larders.

Practically the whole of this part of Palestine, reaching from Deiran to several miles north of Jaffa, is split up into a number of Jewish Colonies, settlers under the Zionist movement, and they form the nucleus of the renascent Jewish nation.  Deiran was found to be a well-laid-out village composed of substantially-built houses of white stone, with red-tiled roofs, “up-to-date” furniture, and with nice white lace curtains at the windows.  One could almost delude himself into the belief that he was home again.  And the delusion almost became a reality as one caught sight of pretty young girls dressed in quite smart European frocks, standing in the doorways with welcoming smiles, and motherly old ladies beaming with pleasure, who handed large bunches of luscious grapes to the men as they rode by.  It must be remembered that it was only two days since that the Turks had been somewhat hurriedly ejected from this place.  The great pleasure that these hard-working people experienced could be quite understood when some of the barbarous acts of the Turks are brought to mind, they being too well known to be dwelt upon here.  Afterwards it was learned from the inhabitants, that many and great were the impositions placed upon them; the Turk simply took what he wanted, and should he happen to take a dislike to anyone, the latter was in danger of having all his property confiscated, without any explanation whatever being given.