length. The Louvre quadrangle (if I may borrow
our old college phrase) is assuredly the most splendid
piece of ornamental architecture which Paris contains.
The interior of the edifice itself is as yet in an
unfinished condition;[4] but you must not conclude
the examination of this glorious pile of building,
without going round to visit the eastern exterior
front—looking towards Notre-Dame. Of
all sides of the square, within or without, this colonnade
front is doubtless the most perfect of its kind.
It is less rich and crowded with ornament than any
side of the interior—but it assumes one
of the most elegant, airy, and perfectly proportionate
aspects, of any which I am just now able to recollect.
Perhaps the basement story, upon which this double
columned colonnade of the Corinthian Order runs, is
somewhat too plain—a sort of affectation
of the rustic. The alto-relievo figures in the
centre of the tympanum have a decisive and appropriate
effect. The advantage both of the Thuileries
and Louvre is, that they are well seen from the principal
thoroughfares of Paris: that is to say, along
the quays, and from the chief streets running from
the more ancient parts on the south side of the Seine.
The evil attending our own principal public edifices
is, that they are generally constructed where they
cannot be seen to advantage. Supposing
one of the principal entrances or malls of London,
both for carriages and foot, to be on the south
side of the Thames, what could be more magnificent
than the front of Somerset House, rising upon
its hundred columns perpendicularly from the sides
of a river... three times as broad as the Seine, with
the majestic arches of Waterloo Bridge!—before
which, however, the stupendous elevation of St.
Paul’s and its correspondent bridge of Black
Friars, could not fail to excite the wonder, and
extort the praise, of the most anti-anglican stranger.
And to crown the whole, how would the venerable nave
and the towers of Westminster Abbey—with
its peculiar bridge of Westminster ... give a finish
to such a succession of architectural objects of metropolitan
grandeur! Although in the very heart, of Parisian
wonder, I cannot help, you see, carrying my imagination
towards our own capital; and suggesting that, if,
instead of furnaces, forges, and flickering flames—and
correspondent clouds of dense smoke—which
give to the southern side of the Thames the appearance
of its being the abode of legions of blacksmiths,
and glass and shot makers—we introduced
a little of the good taste and good sense of our neighbours—and
if ... But all this is mighty easily said—though
not quite so easily put in practice. The truth
however is, my dear friend, that we should approximate
a little towards each other. Let the Parisians
attend somewhat more to our domestic comforts and
commercial advantages—and let the Londoners
sacrifice somewhat of their love of warehouses and
manufactories—and then you will have hit
the happy medium, which, in the metropolis of a great
empire, would unite all the conveniences, with all
the magnificence, of situation.