As to the general character, or rather appearance, of the Strasbourgeois, it is such as to afford very considerable satisfaction.  The manners and customs of the people are simple and sober.  The women, even to the class of menial servants, go abroad with their hair brushed and platted in rather a tasteful manner, as we even sometimes observe in the best circles of our own country.  The hair is dressed a la grecque, and the head is usually uncovered:  contrary to the broad round hats, and depending queues, of the women inhabiting the neighbourhood of Saverne.  But you should know that the farmers about Strasbourg are generally rich in pocket, and choice and dainty in the disposition of their daughters—­with respect to wedlock.  They will not deign to marry them to bourgeois of the ordinary class.  They consider the blood running in their families’ veins to be polluted by such an intermixture; and accordingly they are oftentimes saucy, and hold their heads high.  Even some of the fair dames coming from the high “countre,” whom we saw kneeling the other day, in the cathedral, with their rural attire, would not commute their circular head pieces for the most curiously braided head of hair in the city of Strasbourg.

The utmost order and decency, both in dress and conduct, prevail in the streets and at spectacles.  There seems to be that sober good sense among the Strasbourgeois—­which forms a happy medium between the gaiety of their western, and the phlegm of their eastern, neighbours; and while this general good order obtains, we may forgive “officers for mounting guard in white silk stockings, or for dancing in boots at an assembly—­and young gentlemen for wearing such scanty skirts to their coats:”—­subjects, which appear to have ruffled the good temper of the recent historian of Strasbourg.[225] It seems clear that the morals of the community, and especially of the female part, were greatly benefited by the Reformation,[226] or establishment of the protestant religion.

In alluding to manners and customs, or social establishments of this place, you ought to know that some have imagined the origin of Free-masonry may be traced to Strasbourg; and that the first lodges of that description were held in this city.  The story is this.  The cathedral, considered at the time of its erection as a second Solomon’s temple, was viewed as the wonder of the modern world.  Its masons, or architects, were the theme of universal praise.  Up rose, in consequence, the cathedrals of Vienna, Cologne, Landshut and others:  and it was resolved that, on the completion of such stately structures, those, whose mechanical skill had been instrumental to their erection, should meet in one common bond, and chant together, periodically, at least their own praises.  Their object was to be considered very much above the common labourer, who wore his apron in front, and carried his trowel in his hand:  on the contrary, they adopted,