covered, sometimes up to the mouth, with black, silk cravats.  Their hair was platted, hanging down in two equal divisions.  The face appeared to be flat.  The men wore shovel hats, of which the front part projected to a considerable distance; and the perpetually recurring response of “yaw yaw”—­left it beyond all doubt that we had taken leave of the language of “the polite nation.”  At length we reached Saverne, and changed horses.  This town is large and bustling, and is said to contain upwards of four thousand inhabitants.  We did not stop to examine any of its wonders or its beauties; for we were becoming impatient for Strasbourg.  The next two intermediate post towns were Wasselonne and Ittenheim—­and thence to Strasbourg:  the three posts united being about ten leagues.  From Ittenheim we darted along yet more swiftly than before.  The postilion, speaking in a germanised French accent, told us, that “we were about to visit one of the most famous cities in the world—­and such a CATHEDRAL!” The immediate approach to Strasbourg is flat and uninteresting; nor could I, in every possible view of the tower of the cathedral, bring myself to suppose it—­what it is admitted to be—­the loftiest ecclesiastical edifice in the world!

The fortifications about Strasbourg are said to afford one of the finest specimens of the skill of Vauban.  They may do so; but they are very flat, tame, and unpicturesque.  We now neared the barriers:  delivered our passports; and darted under the first large brick arched way.  A devious paved route brought us to the second gate;—­and thus we entered the town; desiring the post-boy to drive to the Hotel de l’Esprit.  “You judge wisely, Sir, (replied he) for there is no Hotel, either in France or Germany, like it.”  So saying, he continued, without the least intermission, to make circular flourishes with his whip—­accompanied by such ear-piercing sounds, as caused every inhabitant to gaze at us.  I entreated him to desist; but in vain.  “The English always enter in this manner,” said he—­ and having reached the hotel, he gave one super-eminent flourish—­which threw him off his balance, and nearly brought him to the ground.  When I paid him, he pleaded hard for an extra five sous for this concluding flourish!

I am now therefore safely and comfortably lodged in this spacious hotel, by the side of the river Ill—­of which it is pleasing to catch the lingering breezes as they stray into my chamber.  God bless you.

* * * * *

P.S.  One thing I cannot help adding—­perhaps hardly deserving of a postscript.  All the way from Paris to Strasbourg, I am persuaded that we did not meet six travelling equipages.  The lumbering diligence and steady Poste Royale were almost the only vehicles in action besides our own.  Nor were villas or chateaux visible; such as, in our own country, enliven the scene and put the traveller in spirits.