paintings, by Rubens, descriptive of the history of Henry IV.  These now adorn the gallery of the Louvre.  It is a pity that this very tasteful structure—­which seems to be built of the choicest stone—­should be so far removed from what may be called the fashionable part of the city.  It is in consequence reluctantly visited by our countrymen; although a lover of botany, or a florist, will not fail to procure two or three roots of the different species of tulips, which, it is allowed, blow here in uncommon luxuriance and splendor.

The preceding is, I am aware, but a feeble and partial sketch—­compared with what a longer residence, and a temperature more favourable to exercise (for we are half scorched up with heat, positive and reflected)—­would enable me to make.  But “where are my favourite ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES?” methinks I hear you exclaim.  Truly you shall know as much as I know myself; which is probably little enough.  Of NOTRE-DAME, the west front, with its marygold window, is striking both from its antiquity and richness.  It is almost black from age; but the alto-relievos, and especially those above the doors, stand out in almost perfect condition.  These ornaments are rather fine of their kind.  There is, throughout the whole of this west front, a beautiful keeping; and the towers are, here, somewhat more endurable—­and therefore somewhat in harmony.  Over the north-transept door, on the outside, is a figure of the Virgin—­once holding the infant Jesus in her arms.  Of the latter, only the feet remain.  The drapery of this figure is in perfectly good taste:  a fine specimen of that excellent art which prevailed towards the end of the XIIIth century.  Above, is an alto-relievo subject of the slaughter of the Innocents.  The soldiers are in quilted armour.  I entered the cathedral from the western door, during service-time.  A sight of the different clergymen engaged in the office, filled me with melancholy—­and made me predict sad things of what was probably to come to pass!  These clergymen were old, feeble, wretchedly attired in their respective vestments—­and walked and sung in a tremulous and faltering manner.  The architectural effect in the interior is not very imposing:  although the solid circular pillars of the nave—­the double aisles round the choir—­and the old basso-relievo representations of the life of Christ, upon the exterior of the walls of the choir—­cannot fail to afford an antiquary very singular satisfaction.  The choir appeared to be not unlike that of St. Denis.

The next Gothic church, in size and importance, is that of St. GERVAIS—­ situated to the left, in the Rue de Monceau.  It has a very lofty nave, but the interior is exceedingly flat and divested of ornament.  The pillars have scarcely any capitals.  The choir is totally destitute of effect.  Some of the stained glass is rich and old, but a great deal has been stolen or demolished during the Revolution.  There is a good large modern picture, in one of the