LETTER XIV.

Society.  Environs of Strasbourg.  Domestic Architecture.  Manners and Customs.  Literature.  Language. 413

[Illustration]

LETTER I.

PARIS.  THE BOULEVARDS.  PUBLIC BUILDINGS.  STREET SCENERY.  FOUNTAINS.[1]

Paris, June 18, 1818.

You are probably beginning to wonder at the tardiness of my promised Despatch, in which the architectural minutiae of this City were to be somewhat systematically described.  But, as I have told you towards the conclusion of my previous letter, it would be to very little purpose to conduct you over every inch of ground which had been trodden and described by a host of Tourists, and from which little of interest or of novelty could be imparted.  Yet it seems to be absolutely incumbent upon me to say something by way of local description.

Perhaps the BOULEVARDS form the most interesting feature about Paris.  I speak here of the principal Boulevards:—­of those, extending from Ste. Madelaine to St. Antoine; which encircle nearly one half the capital.  Either on foot, or in a carriage, they afford you singular gratification.  A very broad road way, flanked by two rows of trees on each side, within which the population of Paris seems to be in incessant agitation—­lofty houses, splendid shops, occasionally a retired mansion, with a parterre of blooming flowers in front—­all manner of merchandize exposed in the open air—­prints, muslins, kaleidoscopes, (they have just introduced them[2]) trinkets, and especially watch chains and strings of beads, spread in gay colours upon the ground—­the undulations of the chaussee—­and a bright blue sky above the green trees—­all these things irresistibly rivet the attention and extort the admiration of a stranger.  You may have your boots cleaned, and your breakfast prepared, upon these same boulevards.  Felicitous junction of conveniences!

This however is only a hasty sketch of what may be called a morning scene.  AFTERNOON approaches:  then, the innumerable chairs, which have been a long time unoccupied, are put into immediate requisition:  then commences the “high exchange” of the loungers.  One man hires two chairs, for which he pays two sous:  he places his legs upon one of them; while his body, in a slanting position, occupies the other.  The places, where these chairs are found, are usually flanked by coffee houses.  Incessant reports from drawing the corks of beer bottles resound on all sides.  The ordinary people are fond of this beverage; and for four or six sous they get a bottle of pleasant, refreshing, small beer.  The draught is usually succeeded by a doze—­in the open air.  What is common, excites no surprise; and the stream of population rushes on without stopping one instant to notice these somniferous indulgences.  Or, if they are not disposed to sleep, they sit and look about them:  abstractedly gazing upon the multitude around, or at the heavens above.  Pure, idle, unproductive listlessness is the necessary cause of such enjoyment.