Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making eBook

William Hamilton Gibson
This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 377 pages of information about Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making.

Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making eBook

William Hamilton Gibson
This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 377 pages of information about Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making.
for them, as this would greatly depend upon the purpose for which they are designed to be used.  If for rabbits, the following proportions will answer very well.  The sticks should all be square, and about half an inch in thickness.  The bait-stick, (a) should be about nine or ten inches in length, one end being pointed and the other furnished with a notch, as indicated.  The upright stick, (b) should be a little shorter, one end being whittled to a rather sharp edge.  At about three or four inches from the other end, and on the side next to that whittled, a square notch should be cut.  This should be about a third of an inch in depth and half an inch in width, being so cut as exactly to receive the bait-stick without holding it fast.  The remaining stick (c) should have a length of about seven or eight inches, one end being whittled, as in the last, to an edge, and the other end furnished with a notch on the same side of the stick.

[Illustration]

When these are finished, the trap may be set in the following manner:  Place the upright stick, (b) with its pointed end uppermost.  Rest the notch of the slanting stick, (c) on the summit of the upright stick, placing the stone upon its end, and holding the stick in position with the hand.  By now hooking the notch in the bait-stick on the sharpened edge of the slanting stick and fitting it into the square notch in the upright, it may easily be made to catch and hold itself in position.  The bait should always project beneath the stone.  In case a box is used instead of a stone, the trap may be set either inside of it or beneath its edge.  Where the ground is very soft, it would be well to rest the upright stick on a chip or small flat stone, as otherwise it is apt to sink into the earth by degrees and spring by itself.

When properly made, it is a very sure and sensitive trap, and the bait, generally an apple, or “nub” of corn is seldom more than touched when the stone falls.

[Page 109] THE “DOUBLE ENDER.”

[Illustration]

This is what we used to call it in New England and it was a great favorite among the boys who were fond of rabbit catching.  It was constructed of four boards two feet in length by nine inches in breath secured with nails at their edges, so as to form a long square box.  Each end was supplied with a heavy lid working on two hinges.  To each of these lids a light strip of wood was fastened, the length of each being sufficient to reach nearly to the middle of the top of the box, as seen in the illustration.  At this point a small auger hole was then made downward through the board.  A couple of inches of string was next tied to the tip of each stick and supplied with a large knot at the end.  The trap was then set on the simple principle of which there are so many examples throughout the pages of this work.  The knots were lowered through the auger hole and the insertion of the bait stick inside the box held

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Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.