overlapped on the top by a board of similar size, as our illustration shows, at (c).  The bottom of the boat is now easily made by nailing boards crosswise, sawing off the projecting ends close to the curve of the side-boards.  After the pieces are all nailed in place, the seams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, using a blunt chisel, or hard wooden wedge, and a mallet.  The seats should now be put in, as these are not only a matter of comfort, but of necessity, acting as braces to the sides of the boat.  They should be two in number, one being placed three feet from the stern and the other one foot beyond the brace board originally nailed across the top of the boat.  The seats should be cut at the ends in a curve corresponding to the part of the boat in which they are placed, and should be situated about a foot from the bottom of the boat, their ends resting on short boards beneath them against the sides of the boat.  These are indicated by the dotted lines (h h) in [Page 266] the diagram.  When thus resting they should be securely fastened in place by strong screws, driven through the sides of the boat into their ends (f f), allowing some one to sit on the seat meanwhile to keep it in place.  Small cleats should now be tacked to the bottom of the boat, beneath the seat and underneath the seat itself, in order to keep the props in place; after which the original brace board across the top of the boat may be knocked off and the bateau is complete and ready for service.  A boat thus made is quite comely in shape, and may be painted to suit the fancy.  Should a rudder be required, the broad board at the stern offers a good place of attachment, and oar-locks may be adjusted at the proper places.  These may consist of a pair of cleats attached to the inside of the boat, as seen in the illustration.  In case it may be found difficult to obtain the large single boards for the sides of the boat, two or more narrow ones will answer the purpose, although not as perfectly.  In this case they should first be firmly attached together by cleats, securely screwed to the inside.  When first put on the water the boat will probably leak in places, but if left to soak for a few hours the wood will generally swell sufficiently to completely close the crevices.  If, however, the leak should continue, that particular part of the boat should be re-caulked and smeared with pitch.  This latter substance is of great value to the trapper, not only in boat building but in the construction of his shanties and in other various ways.  It will most effectually stop almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should always be applied hot.

[Page 267] THE SCOW.

The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow for considerable speed in the water, either in rowing or sculling; but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed bows may be dispensed with, and the sides of the boat made perfectly straight.  In this case the bottom takes equal slopes at the ends, and both bow and stern are of the same width, and an ordinary flat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result.  In many cases a scow of this kind answers every purpose, and is certainly much more easily made.