When church service was over I examined the dresses more minutely.  The upper tunic of the women was a species of surtout of undyed cloth, bordered with a design of red cloth of a liner description.  The stockings in colour and texture resembled those of Persia, but were generally embroidered at the ankle with gold and silver thread.  After the mid-day meal we descended, accompanied by the monks.  The lately crowded court-yard was silent and empty.  “What,” said I, “all dispersed already?” The superior smiled, and said nothing.  On going out of the gate, I paused in a state of slight emotion.  The whole assembled peasantry were marshalled in two rows, and standing uncovered in solemn silence, so as to make a living avenue to the bridge.

The Igoumen then publicly expressed the pleasure my visit had given to the people, and in their name thanked me, and wished me a prosperous journey, repeating a phrase I had heard before:  “God be praised that Servia has at length seen the day that strangers come from afar to see and know the people!”

I took off my fez, and said, “Do you know, Father Igoumen, what has given me the most pleasure in the course of my visit?”

Ig.  “I can scarcely guess.”

Author.  “I have seen a large assembly of peasantry, and not a trace of poverty, vice, or misery; the best proof that both the civil and ecclesiastical authorities do their duty.”

The Igoumen, smiling with satisfaction, made a short speech to the people.  I mounted my horse; the convent bells began to toll as I waved my hand to the assembly, and “Sretnj poot!” (a prosperous journey!) burst from a thousand tongues.  The scene was so moving that I could scarcely refrain a tear.  Clapping spurs to my horse I cantered over the bridge and gave him his will of the bridle till the steepness of the ascent compelled a slower pace.

FOOTNOTES: 

[Footnote 5:  Servia is divided into seventeen provinces, each governed by a Natchalnik, whose duty it is to keep order and report to the minister of war and interior.  He has of course no control over the legal courts of law attached to each provincial government; he has a Cashier and a Secretary, and each province is divided into Cantons (Sres), over each of which a captain rules.  The average population of a province is 50,000 souls, and there are generally three Cantons in a province, which are governed by captains.]

[Footnote 6:  Whether from the climate or superior cleanliness, there are certainly much fewer fleas in Servia than in Turkey; and I saw other vermin only once.]

CHAPTER XIII.

Romantic sylvan scenery.—­Patriarchal simplicity of manners.—­Krupena,—­Sokol.—­Its extraordinary position.—­Wretched town.—­Alpine scenery.—­Cool reception.—­Valley of the Rogatschitza.