Cadi.  “And not without reason; for Seraievo, with its delicious gardens, must be seen in summer.  In winter the roads are free from haiducks, because they cannot hold out in the snow; but then Seraievo, having lost the verdure and foliage of its environs, ceases to be attractive, except in its bazaars, for they are without an equal.”

Author.  “I always thought that the finest bazaar of Turkey in Europe, was that of Adrianople.”

Cadi.  “Ay, but not equal to Seraievo; when you see the Bosniacs, in their cleanly apparel and splendid arms walking down the bazaar, you might think yourself in the serai of a sultan; then all the esnafs are in their divisions like regiments of Nizam.”

The Disdar Aga now accompanied me to the gate, and bidding me farewell, with graceful urbanity, re-entered the bastioned miniature citadel in which he lived almost alone.  The history of this individual is singular:  his family was cut to pieces in the dreadful scenes of 1806; and, when a mere boy, he found himself a prisoner in the Servian camp.  Being thus without protectors, he was adopted by Luka Lasarevitch, the valiant lieutenant of Kara Georg, and baptized as a Christian with the name of John, but having been reclaimed by the Turks on the re-conquest of Servia in 1813, he returned to the faith of his fathers.

We now returned into the town, and there sat the same Luka Lasarevitch, now a merchant and town councillor, at the door of his warehouse, an octogenarian, with thirteen wounds on his body.

Going home, I asked the collector if the Aga and Luka were still friends.  “To this very day,” said he, “notwithstanding the difference of religion, the Aga looks upon Luka as his father, and Luka looks upon the Aga as his son.”  To those who have lived in other parts of Turkey this account must appear very curious.  I found that the Aga was as highly respected by the Christians as by the Turks, for his strictly honourable character.

We now paid a visit to the Arch-priest, Iowan Paulovitch, a self-taught ecclesiastic:  the room in which he received us was filled with books, mostly Servian; but I perceived among them German translations.  On asking him if he had heard any thing of English literature, he showed me translations into German of Shakspeare, Young’s Night Thoughts, and a novel of Bulwer.  The Greek secular clergy marry; and in the course of conversation it came out that his son was one of the young Servians sent by the government to study mining-engineering, at Schemnitz, in Hungary.  The Church of the Apostles St. Peter and St. Paul, in which he officiates, was built in 1828.  I remarked that it had only a wooden bell tower, which had been afterwards erected in the church yard; no belfry existing in the building itself.  The reason of this is, that, up to the period mentioned, the Servians were unaccustomed to have bells sounded.