all round this pretty little city; all shut in with
the most beautiful ancient fortification walls I ever
beheld, and all in perfect repair; nor were we asked
any questions by the Pope’s soldiers, or Custom-house
Officers. I had a letter to Dr. POWER, an English
Physician in this town, who received me with great
civity, and made me known to LORD MOUNTGARRET, and
Mr. BUTLER, his son, with whom I had the honour to
spend some very agreeable hours: his Lordship
has an excellent house here, and keeps a table, truly
characteristic of the hospitality of his own country.—And
now I cannot help telling you of a singular disorder
which attacked me the very day I arrived; and the
still more singular manner I got well: the day
before I arrived, we had been almost blown along the
road to
Orgon by a most violent wind; but I
did not perceive that I had received any cold or injury
from it, till we arrived here, and then, I had such
an external soreness from head to foot, that I almost
dreaded to walk or stir, and when I did, it was as
slow as my feet could move; after continuing so for
some days, I was much urged to dine with Lord MOUNTGARRET,
on St. Patrick’s day; I did so, and by drinking
a little more than ordinary, set nature to work, who,
without any other Doctor, did the business, by two
or three nights’ copious sweats. I would
not have mentioned this circumstance, but it may be
the
mal du pais, and ought to be mentioned for
the
method of cure.
There was not quite so good an understanding between
the Pope’s Legate and the English residing
here, as could be wished; some untoward circumstance
had happened, and there seemed to be faults on both
sides; it was carried, I think, to such a length, that
when the English met him, they did not pull off their
hats; but as it happened before I came, and as in
our walks and rides we often met him airing in his
coach, we paid that respect which is everywhere due
to a first magistrate, and he took great pains to
return it most graciously; his livery, guards, &c.
make a very splendid appearance: he holds a court,
and is levee’d every Sunday, though not liked
by the French. At the church of St. Didier,
in a little chapel, of mean workmanship, is the tomb
of the celebrated Laura, whose name Petrarch
has rendered immortal; the general opinion is, that
she died a virgin; but it appears by her tomb, that
she was the wife of Hugues de Sade, and that
she had many children. About two hundred years
after her death, some curious people got permission
to open her tomb, in which they found a little box,
containing some verses written by Petrarch,
and a medallion of lead, on one side of which was
a Lady’s head and on the reverse, the four following
letters, M.L.M.E.
Francis the First, passing thro’ Avignon,
visited this tomb, and left upon it the following
epitaph, of his own composition: