Cestius presided over the Roman games.  His name is not to be found in history; but it is rendered illustrious by his tomb.  The massive pyramid which encloses his ashes, defends his death from that oblivion which has entirely effaced his life.  Aurelian, fearing that this pyramid might be employed as a fortress to attack Rome, has caused it to be enclosed within the walls which are yet standing, not as useless ruins, but as the actual enclosure of the modern city.  It is said that the form of the pyramid is in imitation of the flame which ascends from a funeral pyre.  It is certain that this mysterious form attracts the eye and gives a picturesque aspect to every perspective of which it forms a part.  Opposite this pyramid is Mount Testaceo, under which there are extremely cool grottos where feasts are given in summer.  The festivals of Rome are not disturbed at the sight of tombs.  The pines and the cypresses which are perceived at various distances in the smiling country of Italy, are also pregnant with solemn remembrances; and this contrast produces the same effect as the verses of Horace,

——­moriture Delli
------------------------------------------
Linquenda tellus, et domus, et placens
Uxor,[18]

in the midst of poetry consecrated to every enjoyment upon earth.  The ancients have always felt that the idea of death has its pleasures:  it is recalled by love and by festivals, and the most lively emotion of joy seems to increase even from the idea of the shortness of life.

Corinne and Nelville returned from the walk among the tombs, along the banks of the Tiber.—­Once it was covered with vessels and bordered with palaces; once even its inundations were regarded as presages; it was the prophetic river, the tutelary Deity of Rome[19].  At present, one would say that it rolled its tide through a land of shadows; so solitary does it seem, so livid do its waters appear.  The finest monuments of the arts, the most admirable statues have been thrown into the Tiber, and are concealed beneath its waves.  Who knows whether, in order to find them, the river will not one day be turned from its bed?  But when we think that the masterpieces of human genius are perhaps there before us, and that a more piercing eye would behold them through the waves—­we feel that indescribable emotion which incessantly arises at Rome, under various forms, and creates a society for the mind in physical objects which every where else are dumb.

FOOTNOTES: 

[18]
Dellius thou must die---------------------
Thou must quit thy land, thy home, and thy beloved wife.

[19] PLIN. Hist.  Natur. L. iii.  Tiberis ... quamlibet magnorum navium ex Italo mari capax, rerum in toto orbe nascentium mercator placidissimus, pluribus probe solus quam ceteri in omnibus terris amnes accolitur aspiciturque villis.  Nullique fluviorum minus licet, inclusis utrinque lateribus:  nec tamen ipse pugnat, quamquam creber ac subitis incrementis, et nusquam magis aquis quam in ipsa urbe stagnantibus.  Quin imo vates intelligitur potius ac monitor auctu semper religiosus verius quam saevus.