CHAPTER I.

Journey to Norway house.

I started from Stuart’s Lake on the 22d of February, and arrived at Fort Alexandria on the 8th of March.  Although the upper parts of the district were yet buried in snow, it had disappeared in the immediate neighbourhood of the establishment, and everything wore the pleasing aspect of spring.

Mr. F——­ was about to remove to a new post he had erected on the west bank of the river.  Horses were provided for us to perform the journey overland to Okanagan.  We left on the 13th; on the 15th we encamped on the borders of Lac Vert, having experienced a violent snow-storm in the early part of the day.  The lake and circumjacent country presented a beautiful scene; the spurs of the Rocky Mountains bounding the horizon and presenting a rugged outline enveloped in snow—­the intervening space of wooded hill and dale clothed in the fresh verdure of the season; and the innumerable low points and islands in the lake contributing to the variety of the landscape.

Hitherto we had found much snow on the ground, and our progress in consequence was very slow.  Our tardy horses subsisting on whatever they could pick during the night, or when we halted for our meals, began to falter, so that we were under the necessity of stopping to allow them to feed wherever any bare ground appeared.

On the evening of the 18th we came in sight of Kamloops’ Lake, which, to my great surprise, was not only clear of ice, but the valley in which it is situated appeared clothed with verdure, while the heights on the other side were still covered with snow.  The valley looks to the south, and is protected from the cold winds by the neighbouring high grounds.

On arriving at Kamloops’ post we found two Canadians in charge, Mr. B——­ having set off a few days before for the depot at Fort Vancouver.  We met with a cordial reception from his men, who entertained us with horse-flesh and potatoes for supper; and next day we bountifully partook of the same delicacies, my prejudice against this fare having completely vanished.

Fort Kamloops is situated at the confluence of Thompson’s River and its north branch; the Indians attached to it are a tribe of the Atnahs.  Their lands are now destitute of fur-bearing animals, nor are there many animals of the larger kind to be found; they however find subsistence in the variety of edible roots which the country affords.  They have the character of being honest, quiet, and well-disposed towards the whites.  As soon as the young women attain the age of puberty, they paint their faces after a fashion which the young men understand without explanation.  They also dig holes in the ground, which they inlay with grass or branches, as a proof of their industry; and when they are in a certain state they separate from the community and live in small huts, which they build for themselves.  Should any one unwittingly touch them, or an article belonging to them, during their indisposition, he is considered unclean; and must purify himself by fasting for a day, and then jumping over a fire prepared by pure hands.