three laborers engaged by the year.  He pays four louis to a man, and half as much to a woman, and feeds them.  He kills one hog, and salts it, which is all the meat used in the family during the year.  Their ordinary food is bread and vegetables.  At Pomard and Volnay, I observed them eating good wheat bread; at Meursault, rye.  I asked the reason of the difference.  They told me, that the white wines fail in quality much oftener than the red, and remain on hand.  The farmer, therefore, cannot afford to feed his laborers so well.  At Meursault only white wines are made, because there is too much stone for the red.  On such slight circumstances depends the condition of man!  The wines which have given such celebrity to Burgundy grow only on the Cote, an extent of about five leagues long, and half a league wide.  They begin at Chambertin, and go through Vougeau, Romanie, Veaune, Nuits, Beaune, Pomard, Volnay, Meursault, and end at Monrachet.  Those of the two last are white; the others red.  Chambertin, Vougeau, and Beaune are the strongest, and will bear transportation and keeping.  They sell, therefore, on the spot for twelve hundred livres the queue, which is forty-eight sous the bottle.  Volnay is the best of the other reds, equal in flavor to Chambertin, &c., but being lighter, will not keep, and therefore sells for not more than three hundred livres the queue, which is twelve sous the bottle.  It ripens sooner than they do, and consequently is better for those who wish to broach at a year old.  In like manner of the white wines, and for the same reason, Monrachet sells for twelve hundred livres the queue (forty-eight sous the bottle), and Meursault of the best quality, viz. the Goutte d’or, at only one hundred and fifty livres (six sous the bottle).  It is remarkable, that the best of each kind, that is, of the red and white, is made at the extremities of the line, to wit, at Chambertin and Monrachet.  It is pretended, that the adjoining vineyards produce the same qualities, but that, belonging to obscure individuals, they have not obtained a name, and therefore sell as other wines.  The aspect of the Cote is a little south of east.  The western side is also covered with vines, and is apparently of the same soil; yet the wines are only of the coarsest kinds.  Such, too, are those which are produced in the plains; but there the soil is richer, and less strong.  Vougeau is the property of the monks of Citeaux, and produces about two hundred pieces.  Monrachet contains about fifty arpents, and produces, one year with another, about one hundred and twenty pieces.  It belongs to two proprietors only, Monsieur de Clarmont, who leases to some wine-merchants, and the Marquis de Sarsnet, of Dijon, whose part is farmed to a Monsieur de la Tour, whose family, for many generations, have had the farm.  The best wines are carried to Paris by land.  The transportation costs thirty-six livres the piece.  The more indifferent go by water.  Bottles cost four and a half sous each.