it assumes,
by reflection, the color of the
sky or atmosphere, black, green, blue, according to
the state of the weather. If any person wished
to retire from his acquaintance, to live absolutely
unknown, and yet in the midst of physical enjoyments,
it should be in some of the little villages of this
coast, where air, water, and earth concur to offer
what each has, most precious. Here are nightingales,
beccaficas, ortolans, pheasants, partridges, quails,
a superb climate, and the power of changing it from
summer to winter at any moment, by ascending the mountains.
The earth furnishes wine, oil, figs, oranges, and
every production of the garden, in every season.
The sea yields lobsters, crabs, oysters, tunny, sardines,
anchovies, &c. Ortolans sell, at this time, at
thirty sous, equal to one shilling sterling, the dozen.
At this season, they must be fattened. Through
the whole of my route from Marseilles, I observe they
plant a great deal of cane or reed, which is convenient
while growing, as a cover from the cold and boisterous
winds, and when cut, it serves for espaliers to vines,
pease, &c. Through Piedmont, Lombardy, the Milanese,
and Genoese, the garden bean is a great article of
culture; almost as much so as corn. At Albenga,
is a rich plain opening from between two ridges of
mountains, triangularly, to the sea, and of several
miles extent. Its growth is olives, figs, mulberries,
vines, corn, and beans. There is some pasture.
A bishop resides here, whose revenue is forty thousand
livres. This place is said to be rendered unhealthy
in summer, by the river which passes through the valley.
April 30. Oneglia. The wind continuing
contrary, I took mules at Albenga for Oneglia.
Along this tract are many of the tree called caroubier,
being a species of locust. It is the ceratonia
siliqua of Linnaeus. Its pods furnish food
for horses, and also for the poor, in time of scarcity.
It abounds in Naples and Spain. Oneglia and Port
Maurice, which are within a mile of each other, are
considerable places, and in a rich country. At
St. Remo, are abundance of oranges and lemons, and
some palm trees.
May 1. Ventimiglia. Mentone. Monaco.
Nice. At Bordighera, between Ventimiglia
and Mentone, are extensive plantations of palms, on
the hill as well as in the plain. They bring
fruit, but it does not ripen. Something is made
of the midrib which is in great demand at Rome, on
the Palm Sunday, and which renders this tree profitable
here. From Mentone to Monaco, there is more good
land, and extensive groves of oranges and lemons.
Orange water sells here at forty sous, equal to sixteen
pence sterling, the American quart. The distances
on this coast are, from La Spezia, at the eastern
end of the territories of Genoa, to Genoa, fifty-five
miles, geometrical; to Savona, thirty; Albenga, thirty;
Oneglia, twenty; Ventimiglia, twenty-five; Monaco,
ten; Nice, ten; in the whole, one hundred and eighty