partly down a branch of the Bencoolen river, called Ayer Bagus, whose bed is formed of large pebble-stones, and partly through a level country, entirely covered with lofty bamboos.  From Gunong Raja he returned down Bencoolen River on a bamboo raft to Bentiring, and reached Fort Marlborough on the 18th of October.  The other traveller, Mr. Charles Campbell, in a private letter dated March 1802 (referring me, for more detailed information, to journals which have not reached my hand), says, “We crossed the hills nearly behind the Sugar-loaf, and entered the valley of Musi.  Words cannot do justice to the picturesque scenery of that romantic and delightful country, locked in on all sides by lofty mountains, and watered by the noble river here navigable for very large canoes, which, after receiving the Lamatang and several other streams, forms the Palembang.  Directing our course behind the great hill of Sungei-lamo we in three days discovered Labun, and crossed some considerable streams discharging themselves into the river of Kattaun.  Our object there being completed we returned along the banks of the Musi nearly to the dusun of Kalubat, at which place we struck into the woods, and, ascending the mountain, reached towards evening a village high up on the Bencoolen River.  There is but a single range, and it is a fact that from the navigable part of the Musi river to a place on that of Bencoolen where rafts and sampans may be used is to the natives a walk of no more than eight hours.  Musi is populous, well cultivated, and the soil exceedingly rich.  The people are stout, healthy looking, and independent in their carriage and manners, and were to us courteous and hospitable.  They acknowledge no superior authority, but are often insulted by predatory parties from Palembang.”  These freebooters would perhaps call themselves collectors of tribute.  It is much to be regretted that little political jealousies and animosities between the European powers whose influence prevails on each side of the island prevent further discoveries of the course of this considerable river.

CHAPTER 20.

THE COUNTRY OF THE BATTAS. 
TAPPANULI-BAY. 
JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR. 
CASSIA-TREES. 
GOVERNMENTS. 
ARMS.
WARFARE. 
TRADE. 
FAIRS. 
FOOD. 
MANNERS. 
LANGUAGE. 
WRITING. 
RELIGION. 
FUNERALS. 
CRIMES. 
EXTRAORDINARY CUSTOM.

BATTAS.

One of the most considerable distinctions of people in the island, and by many regarded as having the strongest claims to originality, is the nation of the Battas (properly Batak), whose remarkable dissimilitude to the other inhabitants, in the genius of their customs and manners, and especially in some extraordinary usages, renders it necessary that a particular degree of attention should be paid to their description.

SITUATION OF THE COUNTRY.