21st November, 1866.—­We left Bua fountain, lat. 13 deg. 40’ south, and made a short march to Mokatoba, a stockaded village, where the people refused to admit us till the headman, came.  They have a little food here, and sold us some.  We have been on rather short commons for some time, and this made our detention agreeable.  We rose a little in altitude after leaving this morning, then, though in the same valley, made a little descent towards the N.N.W.  High winds came driving over the eastern range, which is called Mchinje, and bring large masses of clouds, which are the rain-givers.  They seem to come from the south-east.  The scenery of the valley is lovely and rich in the extreme.  All the foliage is fresh washed and clean; young herbage is bursting through the ground; the air is deliciously cool, and the birds are singing joyfully:  one, called Mzie, is a good songster, with a loud melodious voice.  Large game abounds, but we do not meet with it.

We are making our way slowly to the north, where food is said to be abundant.  I divided about 50 lbs. of powder among the people of my following to shoot with, and buy goats or other food as we could.  This reduces our extra loads to three—­four just now, Simon being sick again.  He rubbed goat’s-fat on a blistered surface, and caused an eruption of pimples.

Mem.—­The people assent by lifting up the head instead of nodding it down as we do; deaf mutes are said to do the same.

22nd November, 1866.—­Leaving Mokatoba village, and proceeding down the valley, which on the north is shut up apparently by a mountain called Kokwe, we crossed the Kasamba, about two miles from Mokatoba, and yet found it, though so near its source, four yards wide, and knee deep.  Its source is about a mile above Mokatoba, in the same valley, with the Bua and Tembwe.  We were told that elephants were near, and we saw where they had been an hour before; but after seeking about could not find them.  An old man, in the deep defile between Kokwe and Yasika Mountains, pointed to the latter, and said, “Elephants! why, there they are.  Elephants, or tusks, walking on foot are never absent;” but though we were eager for flesh, we could not give him credit, and went down the defile which gives rise to the Sandili River:  where we crossed it in the defile, it was a mere rill, having large trees along its banks, yet it is said to go to the Loangwa of Zumbo, N.W. or N.N.W.  We were now in fact upon the slope which inclines to that river, and made a rapid descent in altitude.  We reached Silubi’s village, on the base of a rocky detached hill.  No food to be had; all taken by Mazitu, so Silubi gave me some Masuko fruit instead.  They find that they can keep the Mazitu off by going up a rocky eminence, and hurling stones and arrows down on the invaders:  they can defend themselves also by stockades, and these are becoming very general.