We started with Chitikola as our guide on the 22nd of October, and he led us away westwards across the Lilongwe River, then turned north till we came to a village called Mashumba, the headman of which was the only chief who begged anything except medicine, and he got less than we were in the habit of giving in consequence:  we give a cloth usually, and clothing being very scarce this is considered munificent.[34]

We had the Zalanyama range on our left, and our course was generally north, but we had to go in the direction of the villages which were on friendly terms with our guides, and sometimes we went but a little way, as they studied to make the days as short as possible.  The headman of the last village, Chitoku, was with us, and he took us to a village of smiths, four furnaces and one smithy being at work.  We crossed the Chiniambo, a strong river coming from Zalanyama and flowing into the Mirongwe, which again goes into Lintipe.  The country near the hills becomes covered with forest, the trees are chiefly Masuko Mochenga (the gum-copal tree), the bark-cloth tree and rhododendrons.  The heath known at the Cape as Rhinoster bosch occurs frequently, and occasionally we have thorny acacias.  The grass is short, but there is plenty of it.

24th October, 1866.—­Our guide, Mpanda, led us through the forest by what he meant to be a short cut to Chimuna’s.  We came on a herd of about fifteen elephants, and many trees laid down by these animals:  they seem to relish the roots of some kinds, and spend a good deal of time digging them up; they chew woody roots and branches as thick as the handle of a spade.  Many buffaloes feed here, and we viewed a herd of elands; they kept out of bow-shot only:  a herd of the baama or hartebeest stood at 200 paces, and one was shot.

While all were rejoicing over the meat we got news, from the inhabitants of a large village in full flight, that the Mazitu were out on a foray.  While roasting and eating meat I went forward with Mpanda to get men from Chimuna to carry the rest, but was soon recalled.  Another crowd were also in full retreat; the people were running straight to the Zalanyama range regardless of their feet, making a path for themselves through the forest; they had escaped from the Mazitu that morning; “they saw them!” Mpanda’s people wished to leave and go to look after their own village, but we persuaded them, on pain of a milando, to take us to the nearest village, that was at the bottom of Zalanyama proper, and we took the spoor of the fugitives.  The hard grass with stalks nearly as thick as quills must have hurt their feet sorely, but what of that in comparison with dear life!  We meant to take our stand on the hill and defend our property in case of the Mazitu coming near; and we should, in the event of being successful, be a defence to the fugitives who crowded up its rocky sides, but next morning we heard that the enemy had gone to the south.  Had we gone forward, as we intended, to search for men to carry the meat we should have met the marauders, for the men of the second party of villagers had remained behind guarding their village till the Mazitu arrived, and they told us what a near escape I had had from walking into their power.