6th October, 1866.—­We marched about seven miles to the north to a village opposite the pass Tapiri, and on a rivulet, Godedza.  It was very hot.  Kimsusa behaves like a king:  his strapping wives came to carry loads, and shame his people.  Many of the young men turned out and took the loads, but it was evident that they feared retaliation if they ventured up the pass.  One wife carried beer, another meal; and as soon as we arrived, cooking commenced:  porridge and roasted goat’s flesh made a decent meal.  A preparation of meal called “Toku” is very refreshing and brings out all the sugary matter in the grain:  he gave me some in the way, and, seeing I liked it, a calabash full was prepared for me in the evening.  Kimsusa delights in showing me to his people as his friend.  If I could have used his pombe, or beer, it would have put some fat on my bones, but it requires a strong digestion; many of the chiefs and their wives live on it almost entirely.  A little flesh is necessary to relieve the acidity it causes; and they keep all flesh very carefully, no matter how high it may become:  drying it on a stage over a fire prevents entire putridity.

7th October, 1866.—­I heard hooping-cough[28] in the village.  We found our visitors so disagreeable that I was glad to march; they were Waiyau, and very impudent, demanding gun or game medicine to enable them to shoot well:  they came into the hut uninvited, and would take no denial.  It is probable that the Arabs drive a trade in gun medicine:  it is inserted in cuts made above the thumb, and on the forearm.  Their superciliousness shows that they feel themselves to be the dominant race.  The Manganja trust to their old bows and arrows; they are much more civil than Ajawa or Waiyau.

[The difference between these two great races is here well worthy of the further notice which Livingstone no doubt would have given it.  As a rule, the Manganja are extremely clever in all the savage arts and manufactures.  Their looms turn out a strong serviceable cotton cloth; their iron weapons and implements show a taste for design which is not reached by the neighbouring tribes, and in all matters that relate to husbandry they excel:  but in dash and courage they are deficient.  The Waiyau, on the contrary, have round apple-shaped heads, as distinguished from the long well-shaped heads of the poor Manganja; they are jocular and merry, given to travelling, and bold in war—­these are qualities which serve them well as they are driven from pillar to post through slave wars and internal dissension, but they have not the brains of the Manganja, nor the talent to make their mark in any direction where brains are wanted.]

A Manganja man, who formerly presented us with the whole haul of his net, came and gave me four fowls:  some really delight in showing kindness.  When we came near the bottom of the pass Tapiri, Kimsusa’s men became loud against his venturing further; he listened, then burst away from them:  he listened again, then did the same; and as he had now got men for us, I thought it better to let him go.