16th July, 1868.—­Crossing this sponge, and passing through flat forest, we came to another named Meshwe, when there, as a contrast, the young men volunteered to carry me across; but I had got off my shoes, and was in the water, and they came along with me, showing the shallower parts.  We finished the day’s march by crossing the Molongosi spongy ooze, with 150 paces of deep water, flowing N.E.  The water in these oozes or sponges felt very cold, though only 60 deg. in the mornings, and 65 deg. at midday.  The Molongosi people invited us into the village; but the forest, unless when infested with leopards and lions, is always preferable, for one is free from vermin, and free from curiosity gazers, who in the village think they have a right to stare, but in the forest feel that they are not on an equality with strangers.

[It was on the 18th of July, 1868, we see that Dr. Livingstone discovered one of the largest of the Central African Lakes.  It is extraordinary to notice the total absence of all pride and enthusiasm, as—­almost parenthetically—­he records the fact.]

17th and 18th July, 1868.—­Reached the chief village of Mapuni, near the north bank of Bangweolo.  On the 18th I walked a little way out and saw the shores of the Lake for the first time, thankful that I had come safely hither.

I told the chief that my goods were all expended, and gave him a fathom of calico as all I could spare:  I told him that as soon as I had seen and measured the Lake I would return north; he replied, that seeing our goods were done he could say nothing, he would give me guides, and what else he should do was known to himself.  He gave a public reception at once.  I asked if he had ever seen anyone like me, and he said, “Never.”  A Babisa traveller asked me why I had come so far; I said I wished to make the country and people better known to the rest of the world, that we were all children of one Father, and I was anxious that we should know each other better, and that friendly visits should be made in safety.  I told him what the Queen had done to encourage the growth of cotton on the Zambezi, and how we had been thwarted by slave-traders and their abettors:  they were pleased with this.  When asked I showed them my note-book, watch, compass, burning-glass, and was loudly drummed home.

I showed them the Bible, and told them a little of its contents.  I shall require a few days more at Bangweolo than I at first intended.  The moon being in its last stage of waning I cannot observe till it is of some size.

19th July, 1868.—­Went down to Masantu’s village, which is on the shore of the Lake, and by a spring called Chipoka, which comes out of a mass of disintegrated granite.  It is seldom that we see a spring welling out beneath a rock:  they are covered by oozing sponges, if indeed they exist.  Here we had as a spectator a man walking on stilts tied to his ankles and knees.  There are a great