18th March, 1868.—­On reaching Mpweto’s yesterday we were taken up to the house of Syde bin Habib, which is built on a ridge overhanging the chiefs village, a square building of wattle and plaster, and a mud roof to prevent it being fired by an enemy.  It is a very pretty spot among the mountains.  Sariama is Bin Habib’s agent, and he gave us a basket of flour and leg of kid.  I sent a message to Mpweto, which he politely answered by saying that he had no food ready in his village, but if we waited two days he would have some prepared, and would then see us.  He knew what we should give him, and he need not tell us I met a man from Seskeke, left sick at Kirwa by Bin Habib and now with him here.

A very beautiful young woman came to look at us, perfect in every way, and nearly naked, but unconscious of indecency; a very Venus in black.  The light-grey, red-tailed parrot seen on the West Coast is common in Rua, and tamed by the natives.[62]

19th March, 1868.[63]—­(Grant, Lord, grace to love Thee more and serve Thee better.)

The favourite son of Mpweto called on us; his father is said to do nothing without consulting him; but he did not seem to be endowed with much wisdom.

20th and 21st March, 1868.—­Our interview was put off; and then a sight of the cloth we were to give was required.  I sent a good large cloth, and explained that we were nearly out of goods now, having been travelling two years, and were going to Ujiji to get more.  Mpweto had prepared a quantity of pombe, a basket of meal, and a goat; and when he looked at them and the cloth, he seemed to feel that it would be a poor bargain, so he sent to say that we had gone to Casembe and given him many cloths, and then to Muabo, and if I did not give another cloth he would not see me.  “He had never slept with only one cloth.”  “I had put medicine on this one to kill him, and must go away.”

It seems he was offended because we went to his great rival, Muabo, before visiting him.  He would not see Syde bin Habib for eight days; and during that time was using charms to try if it would be safe to see him at all:  on the ninth day he peeped past a door for some time to see if Bin Habib were a proper person, and then came out:  he is always very suspicious.

At last he sent an order to us to go away, and if we did not move, he would come with all his people and drive us off.  Sariamo said if he were not afraid for Syde bin Habib’s goods, he would make a stand against Mpweto; but I had no wish to stay or to quarrel with a worthless chief, and resolved to go next day. (24th March.) He abused a native trader with his tongue for coming to trade, and sent him away too.  We slept again at our half-way village, Kapemba, just as a party of salt-traders from Rua came into it:  they were tall, well-made men, and rather dark.

25th March, 1868.—­Reached Kabwabwata at noon, and were welcomed by Mohamad and all the people.  His son, Sheikh But, accompanied us; but Mohamad told us previously that it was likely Mpweto would refuse to see us.