4th and 5th September, 1867.—­Went seven hours west of the Lofu to a village called Hara, one of those burned by Hamees because the people would not take a peaceful message to Nsama.  This country is called Itawa, and Hara is one of the districts.  We waited at Hara to see if Nsama wished us any nearer to himself.  He is very much afraid of the Arabs, and well he may be, for he was until lately supposed to be invincible.  He fell before twenty muskets, and this has caused a panic throughout the country.  The land is full of food, though the people have nearly all fled.  The ground-nuts are growing again for want of reapers; and 300 people living at free-quarters make no impression on the food.

9th September, 1867.—­Went three hours west of Hara, and came to Nsama’s new stockade, built close by the old one burned by Tipo Tipo, as Hamidi bin Mohamed was named by Nsama.[57] I sent a message to Nsama, and received an invitation to come and visit him, but bring no guns.  A large crowd of his people went with us, and before we came to the inner stockade they felt my clothes to see that no fire-arms were concealed about my person.  When we reached Nsama, we found a very old man, with a good head and face and a large abdomen, showing that he was addicted to pombe:  his people have to carry him.  I gave him a cloth, and asked for guides to Moero, which he readily granted, and asked leave to feel my clothes and hair.  I advised him to try and live at peace, but his people were all so much beyond the control of himself and headmen, that at last, after scolding them, he told me that he would send for me by night, and then we could converse, but this seems to have gone out of his head.  He sent me a goat, flour, and pombe, and next day we returned to Hara.

Nsama’s people have generally small, well-chiseled features, and many are really handsome, and have nothing of the West Coast Negro about them, but they file their teeth to sharp points, and greatly disfigure their mouths.  The only difference between them and Europeans is the colour.  Many of the men have very finely-formed heads, and so have the women; and the fashion of wearing the hair sets off their foreheads to advantage.  The forehead is shaved off to the crown, the space narrowing as it goes up; then the back hair, is arranged into knobs of about ten rows.

10th September, 1867.—­Some people of Ujiji have come to Nsama’s to buy ivory with beads, but, finding that the Arabs have forestalled them in the market, they intend to return in their dhow, or rather canoe, which is manned by about fifty hands.  My goods are reported safe, and the meat of the buffaloes which died in the way is there, and sun-dried.  I sent a box, containing papers, books, and some clothes, to Ujiji.