loaded canoes; and the baggage must therefore be transported
for a considerable distance over the steep mountains,
where it would be impossible to employ horses for
the relief of the men. Even the empty canoes must
be let down the rapids by means of cords, and not
even in that way without great risk both to the canoes
as well as to the men. At one of these shoals,
indeed the rocks rise so perpendicularly from the water
as to leave no hope of a passage or even a portage
without great labour in removing rocks, and in some
instances cutting away the earth. To surmount
these difficulties would exhaust the strength of the
party, and what is equally discouraging would waste
our time and consume our provisions, of neither of
which have we much to spare. The season is now
far advanced, and the Indians tell us we shall shortly
have snow: the salmon too have so far declined
that the natives themselves are hastening from the
country, and not an animal of any kind larger than
a pheasant or a squirrel, and of even these a few
only will then be seen in this part of the mountains:
after which we shall be obliged to rely on our own
stock of provisions, which will not support us more
than ten days. These circumstances combine to
render a passage by water impracticable in our present
situation. To descend the course of the river
on horseback is the other alternative, and scarcely
a more inviting one. The river is so deep that
there are only a few places where it can be forded,
and the rocks approach so near the water as to render
it impossible to make a route along the waters’
edge. In crossing the mountains themselves we
should have to encounter, besides their steepness,
one barren surface of broken masses of rock, down which
in certain seasons the torrents sweep vast quantities
of stone into the river. These rocks are of a
whitish brown, and towards the base of a gray colour,
and so hard, that on striking them with steel, they
yield a fire like flint. This sombre appearance
is in some places scarcely relieved by a single tree,
though near the river and on the creeks there is more
timber, among which are some tall pine: several
of these might be made into canoes, and by lashing
two of them together, one of tolerable size might
be formed.
After dinner he continued his route, and at the distance
of half a mile passed another creek about five yards
wide. Here his guide informed him that by ascending
the creek for some distance he would have a better
road, and cut off a considerable bend of the river
towards the south. He therefore pursued a well-beaten
Indian track up this creek for about six miles, when
leaving the creek to the right he passed over a ridge,
and after walking a mile again met the river, where
it flows through a meadow of about eighty acres in
extent. This they passed and then ascended a
high and steep point of a mountain, from which the
guide now pointed out where the river broke through
the mountains about twenty miles distant. Near