which I read you a short description in Mr. Taylor’s
tour. It is a singular scene; I meant to have
given you some account of it, but I feel myself too
lazy to execute the task. ’Tis such a performance
as you might have expected from some giant gardener
employed by one of Queen Elizabeth’s courtiers,
if this same giant gardener had consulted with Spenser,
and they two had finished the work together.
By this you will understand that it is at once formal
and wild. We reached Askrigg, twelve miles, before
six in the evening, having been obliged to walk the
last two miles over hard frozen roads, to the great
annoyance of our ankles and feet. Next morning
the earth was thinly covered with snow, enough to
make the road soft, and prevent its being slippery.
On leaving Askrigg, we turned aside to see another
waterfall. It was a beautiful morning, with driving
snow showers, which disappeared by fits, and unveiled
the east, which was all one delicious pale orange
colour. After walking through two small fields
we came to a mill, which we passed; and in a moment
a sweet little valley opened before us with an area
of grassy ground, and a stream dashing over various
laminae of black rocks close under a bank covered
with firs; the bank and stream on our left, another
woody bank on our right, and the flat meadow in front,
from which, as at Buttermere the stream had retired,
as it were, to hide itself under the shade. As
we walked up this delightful valley we were tempted
to look back perpetually on the stream, which reflected
the orange lights of the morning among the gloomy
rocks, with a brightness varying with the agitation
of the current. The steeple of Askrigg was between
us and the east, at the bottom of the valley; it was
not a quarter of a mile distant, but oh! how far we
were from it! The two banks seemed to join before
us with a facing of rock common to them both.
When we reached this bottom the valley opened out
again; two rocky banks on each side, which, hung with
ivy and moss, and fringed luxuriantly with brushwood,
ran directly parallel to each other, and then approaching
with a gentle curve at their point of union, presented
a lofty waterfall, the termination of the valley.
It was a keen frosty morning, showers of snow threatening
us, but the sun bright and active. We had a task
of twenty-one miles to perform in a short winter’s
day. All this put our minds into such a state
of excitation, that we were no unworthy spectators
of this delightful scene. On a nearer approach
the waters seemed to fall down a tall arch, or niche,
that had shaped itself by insensible moulderings in
the wall of an old castle. We left this spot
with reluctance, but highly exhilarated. When
we had walked about a mile and a half, we overtook
two men with a string of ponies and some empty carts.
I recommended to Dorothy to avail herself of this opportunity
of husbanding her strength: we rode with them
more than two miles. ’Twas bitter cold,
the wind driving the snow behind us in the best style