’We left Cottle, as you know, at Greta Bridge.  We were obliged to take the mail over Stanemoor:  the road interesting with sun and mist.  At Temple Sowerby I learned that John was at Newbiggin.  I sent a note; he came, looks very well, said he would accompany us a few days.  Next day we set off and dined at Mr. Myers’, thence to Bampton, where we slept.  On Friday proceeded along the lake of Hawes-Water, a noble scene which pleased us much.  The mists hung so low that we could not go directly over to Ambleside, so we went round by Long Sleddale to Kentmere, Troutbeck, Rayrigg, and Bowness; ... a rainy and raw day....  Went to the ferry, much disgusted with the new erections about Windermere; ... thence to Hawkshead:  great change among the people since we were last there.  Next day by Rydal to Grasmere, Robert Newton’s.  At Robert Newton’s we have remained till to-day.  John left us on Tuesday:  we walked with him to the tarn.  This day was a fine one, and we had some grand mountain scenery; the rest of the week has been bad weather.  The evening before last we walked to the upper waterfall at Rydal, and saw it through the gloom, and it was very magnificent.  Coleridge was much struck with Grasmere and its neighbourhood.  I have much to say to you.  You will think my plan a mad one, but I have thought of building a house there by the lake-side.  John would give me 40_l._ to buy the ground.  There is a small house at Grasmere empty, which, perhaps, we may take; but of this we will speak.’[46]

[46] Memoirs, i. 148-9.

24. At the Lakes.

LETTER TO COLERIDGE (1799):  JOURNEY FROM SOCKBURN TO GRASMERE.

’We arrived here on the evening of St. Thomas’s day, last Friday [1799], and have now been four days in our new abode without writing to you—­a long time! but we have been in such confusion as not to have had a moment’s leisure.  My dear friend, we talk of you perpetually, and for me I see you every where.  But let me be a little more methodical.  We left Sockburn last Tuesday morning.  We crossed the Tees by moonlight in the Sockburn fields, and after ten good miles’ riding came in sight of the Swale.  It is there a beautiful river, with its green bank and flat holms scattered over with trees.  Four miles further brought us to Richmond, with its huge ivied castle, its friarage steeple, its castle tower resembling a huge steeple, and two other steeple towers, for such they appeared to us.  The situation of this place resembles that of Barnard Castle, but I should suppose is somewhat inferior to it.  George accompanied us eight miles further, and there we parted with sorrowful hearts.  We were now in Wensley Dale, and D[orothy] and I set off side by side to foot it as far as Kendal.  I will not clog my letter with a description of this celebrated dale; but I must not neglect to mention that a little before sunset we reached one of the waterfalls, of