with those of the French, and, as far as I have had
opportunity to observe, they lose very much by the
comparison. We not only found the French a much
less imposing people, but that politeness diffused
through the lowest ranks had an air so engaging that
you could scarce attribute it to any other cause than
real benevolence. During the time, which was
near a month, that we were in France, we had not once
to complain of the smallest deficiency in courtesy
in any person, much less of any positive rudeness.
We had also perpetual occasion to observe that cheerfulness
and sprightliness for which the French have always
been remarkable. But I must remind you that we
crossed at the time when the whole nation was mad with
joy in consequence of the Revolution. It was
a most interesting period to be in France; and we
had many delightful scenes, where the interest of the
picture was owing solely to this cause. I was
also much pleased with what I saw of the Italians
during the short time we were among them. We
had several times occasion to observe a softness and
elegance which contrasted strongly with the severe
austereness of their neighbours on the other side
of the Alps. It was with pleasure I observed,
at a small inn on the lake of Como, the master of
it playing upon his harpsichord, with a large collection
of Italian music about him. The outside of the
instrument was such that it would not much have graced
an English drawing-room; but the tones that he drew
from it were by no means contemptible.
But it is time to talk about England. When you
write to my brothers, I must beg of you to give my
love, and tell them I am sorry it has not been in
my power to write to them. Kit will be surprised
he has not heard from me, as we were almost upon terms
of regular correspondence. I had not heard from
Richard for some time before I set out. I did
not call upon him when I was in London; not so much
because we were determined to hurry through London,
but because he, as many of our friends at Cambridge
did, would look upon our scheme as mad and impracticable.
I expect great pleasure, on my return to Cambridge,
in exulting over those of my friends who threatened
us with such an accumulation of difficulties as must
undoubtedly render it impossible for us to perform
the tour. Every thing, however, has succeeded
with us far beyond my most sanguine expectations.
We have, it is true, met with little disasters occasionally,
but far from distressing, and they rather gave us
additional resolution and spirits. We have both
enjoyed most excellent health; and we have been so
inured to walking, that we are become almost insensible
to fatigue. We have several times performed a
journey of thirteen leagues over the most mountainous
parts of Switzerland without any more weariness than
if we had been walking an hour in the groves of Cambridge.
Our appearance is singular; and we have often observed,
that, in passing through a village, we have excited
a general smile. Our coats, which we had made