[Illustration:  MONUMENT OF DR. DONNE. After W. Hollar.]

[Illustration:  PREACHING AT PAUL’S CROSS BEFORE JAMES I. From a painting by H. Farley.  Collection of the Society of Antiquaries.]

[Illustration:  OLD ST. PAUL’S FROM THE THAMES. After W. Hollar.]

[Illustration:  WEST FRONT AFTER THE FIRE. From a drawing in the Library of St. Paul’s Cathedral.]

He now took the lead in the restoration of St. Paul’s.  It must be acknowledged that after the first outburst of zeal following the fire of 1561, St. Paul’s was much neglected for many long years.  The authorities were lukewarm, the services were dead and unattractive, and all manner of irreverence was seen there daily.  Bishop Earle’s Microcosmography (1628) often gets quoted, but his description of “Paule’s Walke” ought to find place here.  I take it from a contemporary MS. copy.  Paul’s Walk was the whole nave of the cathedral:—­“Paule’s Walke is the lande’s epitomy, or you may call it, the lesser Ile [Aisle] of Greate Brittayne.  It is more than this, the whole woorlde’s map, which you may here discerne in its perfect motion, justling and turning.  It is an heape of stones and men, with a vast confusion of languages, and were the steeple not sanctified, nothing liker Babell.  The noyse of it is like that of bees, an humming buzze mixed with walking tongues, and feet.  It is a kind of still rore, or loude whisper.  It is the greate exchange of all discourse, and noe business whatsoever but it is here stirring and on foote.  It is the Synode of all pates politicke, jointed and layed together in most serious postures; and they are not halfe soe busy at the Parliament.  It is the anticke of tayles to tayles, and backes to backes, and for vizzards you neede goe noe further than faces.  Tis the market of young lecturers, which you may cheapen at all rates and sizes.  It is the generall mint of famous lyes, which are here (like the legendes of Popery) first coyned, and stamped in the church.  All inventions are emptied here, and not few pockettes.  The best signe of a temple in it, is that it is the thieves’ sanctuary, whoe rob here more safely in a crowde than in a wildernesse, whilst every searcher is a bush to hide them in.  It is the other expence of a day after playes and the taverne ... and men have still some othes left to swear here....  The visitants are all men without exception, but the principall inhabitants are stale knights and captains out of servis, men with long rapiers and breeches, who after all turne merchant here, and trafficke for news.  Some make it a preface to dinner and travell for a stomache, but thriftier men make it their ordinary, and boarde here very cheape.  Of all such places it is least troubled with hobgoblins, for if a ghost would walk here he could not.”  Of “the singing men” he draws a most unfavourable picture, accuses them of drunkenness and shameful looseness of life; says that they are earnest in evil deeds and that their