The travellers were now not far from Delhi, but could hardly proceed further without a guide, and the people of Badshahpur declined to provide one.  They pleaded that they were men of peace, and could not possibly leave their village in such evil times.  Suddenly a man from the crowd, offered his services.  His appearance was against him, and the villagers declared that he was a notorious cattle-lifter, who was strongly suspected of having set fire to the collector’s (Mr. Ford’s) office at Gurgaon, in order that the evidences of his offences might be destroyed.  Not a pleasant compagnon de voyage, but there was nothing for it but to accept his offer.

As soon as it was dark a start was made, and at daybreak on the 29th the minarets of Delhi rose out of the morning mist, while an occasional shell might be seen bursting near the city.

On reaching the Hansi road, the guide, by name Jumna Das, who, in spite of appearances, had proved true to his word, stopped and said he could go no further.  He would not take any reward that it was then in the power of Stewart or Ford to offer him, but he expressed a hope that, when the country became settled, the slight service he had performed would not be forgotten.  They gratefully assured him on this point, and thanked him cordially, giving him at the same time a letter testifying to his valuable service.  Stewart then went to the nearest village, and for a small reward found a man who undertook to conduct them safely to one of our piquets.

One curious circumstance remarked by Stewart throughout the ride was that the peasants and villagers, though not generally hostile to him, had evidently made up their minds that the British raj was at an end, and were busily engaged in rendering their villages defensible, to meet the troubles and disturbances which they considered would surely follow on the resumption of Native rule.

It is difficult to over-estimate the pluck and enterprise displayed by Stewart during this most adventurous ride.  It was a marvel that he ever reached Delhi.  His coming there turned out to be the best thing that ever happened to him, for the qualities which prompted him to undertake and carried him through his dangerous journey, marked him as a man worthy of advancement and likely to do well.

[Footnote 1:  While the regiment was in the act of mutinying one of the sepoys left the parade-ground, and running round to all the civilians’ houses, told the occupants what had happened, and warned them to make their escape.  He asked for no reward, and was never seen again.]

[Footnote 2:  Native magistrate.]

[Footnote 3:  City magistrate.]

* * * * *

APPENDIX II.

(These two memoranda are referred to in the note in Chapter XXV, Footnote 6.)

Memorandum by Lieutenant McLeod Innes.